INBOARD JIB SHEET FAIRLEAD TRACK PLUS REPLACE GENOA TRACK

Inboard jib sheeting is the SECRET to having a MATILDA perform WELL to windward.
The jib sheet fairleads, using the outside tracks on the gunnels, result in a jib sheet LEAD angle of 24 degrees.
"UNDERSTANDING RIGS AND RIGGING" by RICHARD HENDERSON recommends a sheeting angle of 8-10degees for RACERS and 10-12degrees for CRUISERS[page 150].

Also recommended is an wider angle for really strong winds but who wants to go out in a storm unless you have to.
The 24degree sheeting angle of the stock MATILDA is quite adequate for BEAM reaches and BROAD reaches [ the MATILDA'S strong points of sail, especially with a large GENOA] but for windward work, the potential of the Matilda is severely compromised.
Moving the tracks inboard to 14degrees[we are limited to 14degrees because of the cabin hatch cover rails] has dramatically improved the ability of our MATILDA to go to windward. The inboard tracks are 24" in length. They are what was left over from two 6' lengths of genoa track that we used to replace the original gunnel tracks. They are held in place with flat head stainless steel bolts, 1/4"-20 t.p.i. with a large stainless steel flat washer [7/8" in dia.], plus a lock washer and an acorn nut on the underside of the cabin roof. Our boat has now had 2 seasons of fairly vigorous sailing and I have not been able to detect any stress cracks, etc. around the track on the cabin top or on the underside of the top. If there was only one attachment point for the fairlead, it might be a different story but having the 2' length of track helps to spread the load on the cabin top.
The mainsail,when pulled to the centerline , as it should be for windward work, is NOT backwinded to any great extent.
The angle of heel has not increased significantly. In really strong winds, the outside tracks can still be used.
Using Harken cam cleats on the cabin roof, allows quick release and adjustment of the jib sheets. As well, the tightening of the jib sheets is not a great physical effort, IF one does it properly.
The SECRET to trimming, in medium strength winds is to hold off releasing the jib sheet, until the jib sail goes thru the eye of the wind and then, to quickly tighten the sheet , as much as possible before the wind fills the sail on the new heading.
Once the new tack is established, the jib sheet could be adjusted, but for most windward work, you want the jib sheet as tight as possible.
P.S. In order for the jib sail to function properly with the new tracks, it is necessary to make a short leader for the jib tack. A length of 12" works well but 14" would be ideal[see JIB TACK LEADER].
One must bear in mind that a short, broad, beamy hull like the Matilda, will never go to windward as well as a long, narrow, easily driven hull, but the windward ability of a MATILDA can be GREATLY IMPROVED.

P.S. Here is a link to an EXCELLENT article on installing inboard jib sheet fairlead tracks on a West Wight Potter 19.

http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/gennytracks/installinggennytracks

RELACE GENOA TRACKS

There were several problems we had hoped to solve with replacing the original gunnel tracks.

#1 There were mysterious leaks on our MATILDA, especially when going to windward, in strong winds ,with the leeward gunnel near or actually under water for periods of time. Upon investigation, we found that the hull to deck joint wasn't compromised and the source of the leaks still eluded us. Only when we decided to check the integrity of the gunnel track screws, did we find that some would spin quite readily in their sockets and were certainly not holding securely. After withdrawing a few, we noticed the soupy consistency of the material they were screwed into. Apparently the thru holes in the original track, for the fairlead locking pin, allowed water to sit in the holes and eventually find its way to the screw holes where it spiralled down the screw and eventually compromised the fibreglass[?] material the screws were screwed into. We removed the track and filled the original screw holes with epoxy [the new track would require new holes for the attachment screws in a different location]. We found that some of the screw holes allowed the epoxy to run right down to the bilge.

#2 The original fairlead blocks [ without hold up springs] were always clanging around on the windward side when going to weather but stand/up blocks were not available to fit the original tracks [with 3/16" thick ears]. The newer fairleads required a track with 1/8" thick ears and they were available with nylon inserts which made them much easier to move on the track.

#3 The new track had fairlead adjustment holes that did not go all the way thru the tracks. Consequently, water could never seep from the adjustment holes on the new track.