tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-162744632024-03-27T00:49:55.750-07:00Matilda ModificationsMulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.comBlogger14125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-1126883022327879752005-09-16T07:59:00.000-07:002013-03-11T06:13:11.470-07:00MODIFIED MATILDA PLUS SAILING TO WINDWARD<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/from%20les.gif"><img alt="" border="0" height="408" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/400/from%20les.gif" style="float: right; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px;" width="400" /></a><br />
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......................Image- Courtesy of Les Leonhardt........................<br />
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????What Constitutes A Modified Matilda???[Status as of Sept. 30/04]<br />
OR<br />
Things I have learned about a MATILDA 20<br />
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<span style="color: #3366ff;">Efficiency</span><br />
<span style="color: #009900;">....Cosmetic</span><br />
<span style="color: red;">........Safety</span><span style="color: #3366ff;">X........</span> #1. Install inboard jib sheet fairlead track [13 degrees rather than 25 degrees] and install Harken cam cleats<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">X........</span> #2. Install 12" Leader on jib tack<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">X........</span> #3. Fair and apply 2 part paint to centerboard and bulb plus rudder [Awlgrip Forest<br />
Green]<br />
<span style="color: red;">........</span> <span style="color: red;">X</span>#4. Revise centerboard raising/lowering pulleys to reduce wear on front centerboard guide as well as ensure safety bolt engagement<br />
<span style="color: red;">........X</span> #5. Install safety limit strap on centerboard<br />
<span style="color: #009900;">....X </span><span style="color: red;">X</span> #6. Replace wooden handrails with stainless handrails<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">X</span> <span style="color: #009900;">X</span> <span style="color: red;">X </span>#7. Install 15" windex wind indicator on proper mount<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">X</span><span style="color: red;">.... X</span> #8. Tension standing rigging to ensure a taut rig<br />
....................................... 5/32" 1x19 wire-B.S. =3300lbs<br />
..................Forestay 15% of breaking strength = 500lbs<br />
.........Upper shroud 15%. "......... ".............. " .....= 500lbs<br />
.........Lower shroud 10%. " .........".............. " .....= 330lbs<br />
....................Backstay 5% ."......... ".............. " .....= 165lbs<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">X.</span> <span style="color: red;">....X</span> #9. Make new bushings for rudder pintles and gudgeons<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">X</span>...... #10. Install spring on rudder to ensure leading edge of rudder blade is at 90 degrees to<br />
waterline<br />
<span style="color: #009900;">...X....</span> #11. Replace window gaskets<br />
<span style="color: #009900;">...X....</span> #12. Replace windows with lexan<br />
<span style="color: #009900;">...X....</span> #13. Paint hull from waterline to gunnels with 2 part paint [Awlgrip Forest Green]<br />
<span style="color: #009900;">...X. ..</span>.#14. Install name on hull<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">X......</span> .#15. Move gas tank to starboard cockpit locker<br />
<span style="color: red;">.......</span><span style="color: red;">.X</span>#16. Make bracket to install life ring on stern pulpit<br />
<span style="color: #009900;">...X....</span> #17. Paint cabin entrance trim and door<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">X.......</span> #18. Replace loose slugs on mainsail<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">X.......</span> #19. Make boom downhaul functional<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">X.......</span> #20. Replace genoa track so that genoa track fairleads function<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">X</span> <span style="color: #009900;">X</span> <span style="color: red;">X</span> #21. Make caps for ends of spreaders so that they do not droop<br />
<span style="color: #009900;">...X....</span> #22. Fill nicks and gouges in gunnel with gelcoat<br />
<span style="color: #009900;">...X....</span> #23. Remove winch, organizer and eye straps from cabin top<br />
<span style="color: #009900;">...X....</span> #24. Fill bolt holes with epoxy<br />
<span style="color: #009900;">...X.</span> <span style="color: red;">X</span>#25. Replace rotted wood on motor mount with plastic<br />
<span style="color: red;">........X</span>#26. Replace wiring and bulbs on mast<br />
<span style="color: #009900;">...X....</span> #27. Replace broken screws in hatch cover slides<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">X</span> <span style="color: #009900;">X..</span> .#28. Make a Mobius Brummel splice to attach jib clew shackle to jib sheet<br />
<span style="color: #009900;">....X .</span>..#29. Replace tiller with custom tiller from Nordica<br />
<span style="color: red;">........X</span>#30. Make new motor lock so that motor mount functions properly<br />
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<span style="font-size: 130%;">SAILING TO WINDWARD</span><br />
Sailing to windward is an art and to a large degree is what sailing is all about. The shape of sailboats is even dictated by this observation. The most popular type of sail plan is the Bermudian-rigged sloops because they are so efficient to windward.<br />
Sailing with the wind behind you, most boats tend to be relatively similar in performance. The exception is that if you have managed to present more sail area to the wind, e.g. spinnaker, whisker pole etc., you will gain marginally on your opponent. When sailing down wind, sail area is the most critical component. EVEN A HAYSTACK CAN SAIL DOWNWIND.<br />
But when sailing to windward, sail shape and the sails’ relationship to one another are much more critical and demanding, but ,OH, so rewarding. When sails are properly set and performing well, there is a tremendous improvement in speed and pointing ability over an improperly rigged set of sails. The sum of two sails, properly trimmed, to the wind strength can be more than the total of each individual sail. In other words, if the mainsail provides 100 lbs. of forward thrust by itself and the jib provides 50 lbs. of forward thrust by itself, when they are rigged and trimmed to properly complement each other, you might end up with 200 lbs. of forward thrust. THIS IS THE "HOLY GRAIL" OF SAILING.<br />
Many different styles of sailboat, e.g. sailboards, catamarans, are faster on a beam and broad reach than sloop rigged mono-hulls, but if they are asked to compete around a race course, the sailboards and catamarans are at a great disadvantage because of their lack of ability to point well.<br />
So where does a Matilda fall in the grand scheme of things? Because of its broad beamy hull, a Matilda’s strength is its great stability. On lesser boats, if you step on the gunnel, the boat is likely to tip over, but on a Matilda, she says, "Welcome aboard and sit yourself down, if you please".This tremendous stability is what endears many Matilda owners to their pride and joy. This fact also carries over to the crew who think that nothing can go wrong when sailing a Matilda because they are so stable.. This stability is also a great asset when it comes to beam reaching and broad reaching, especially with a big genoa . It is really exhilerating to be on a Matilda with sails properly set, on a close reach, and when the centreboard is pulled up, tear off onto a screaming plane. (Try that, you keel boats.)<br />
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A case in point is, at the <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/WILDWWOD%20SAILING%20CLUB%20OVERVIEW.0.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/WILDWWOD%20SAILING%20CLUB%20OVERVIEW.0.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" /></a>Wildwood Sailing Club, when we have the wind out of the northwest, [the prevailing wind direction, in our area] running down the lake is a piece of cake, and if you happen to "go around the bend", that is head off on an easterly beam reac<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/THE%20BRIDGE.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" height="250" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/THE%20BRIDGE.jpg" style="float: right; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px;" width="319" /></a>h, you can really enjoy a relaxing sail right down to the bridge at the end of the lake. But now the fun begins. When you turn around to head back to the club, the first section, on a beam reach, goes reasonably well until you hit" THE <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/THE%20WALL%20OF%20GREEN%20#2.0.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" height="142" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/THE%20WALL%20OF%20GREEN%20%232.0.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" width="320" /></a>BEND". Because the wind, coming straight down the lake from the northwest, hits the "WALL OF GREEN" [ trees surrounding the lake shore], the wind bends around the corner producing a westerly shift to the wind at the bend. Sailing into this shift forces you to change from a beam reach to a close reach (pointing) and your progress around the bend is impeded. If your boat does not point well, you can spend a long time (it seems like forever) making progress around the bend and then, when you finally do get around the bend, you are faced with a beat to windward back to the club.<br />
This lack of pointing ability reflects poorly on the owners of Matildas in general. Prior to acquiring our Matilda, we would leave the end of the lake at the same time as a Matilda, and be back at the club in one quarter of the time it took the Matilda to return to the club. This self congratulation was not entirely due to superior sailing skills but to the dramatic difference in the pointing ability of our two completely different crafts - the Matilda, broad beamed and poorly rigged for pointing and our KD (<a href="http://kerry-dancer.blogspot.ca/">http://kerry-dancer.blogspot.ca/</a>), a highly refined pointing machine.<br />
Upon acquiring the Matilda, I pondered what could cause the tremendous difference in pointing ability between the two crafts. It finally dawned on me that the chord of the foresail on a Matilda was the main culprit, aside from the difference in the hulls. That was when I decided that something had to be done to improve the pointing ability of our Matilda, as I was not content to go from leading the pack to bringing up the rear. It also dawned on me that people who owned Matildas can be incorrectly looked down upon for their lack of sailing abilities when their boat is actually the problem. This "defect" in the boat causes many Matilda owners to forgo the pleasures of sailing to windward and to be content with beam and broad reaching, and if they do go around the bend, they decide that motoring back to the club is the "GENTLEMANLY" thing to do.<br />
So once the problem has been defined, how do we go about correcting it?<br />
The original position of the jib sheet fairlead anchor, on the gunnel track results in a chord angle of 24degrees. Much too open to properly complement the main sail, when going to windward. [It is almost impossible to ever backwind the main sail with the jib fairlead in it's original position]. By moving the jib sheet fairleads to the cabin top, we could get close to the desired chord angle of 12degrees. It was also necessary to add a leader to the tack of the foresail [to raise the sail] so that the cabin top fairleads could be utilized. We also added cam cleats for the jib sheets, which make sheeting the jib a "piece of cake".<br />
This installation has greatly improved the pointing ability of our MATILDA and has resulted in many a surprised look from skippers, we have brushed against, who have always thought that MATILDAS could not go to weather well.<br />
All in all, a very worthwhile modification!!!<br />
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P.S. JIB TACK LEADER and INBOARD JIB SHEET FAIRLEAD TRACK postings also contain information concerning SAILING WELL TO WINDWARD.<br />
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Nowhere has it been mentioned how critical a good wind indicator is to <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_y7pyo3iW6SoA2_sVORQaozjcqXlqIVuxSYl7dOGrB9F9sg-40SGbxb5AU0WqkDMXkS0frDG6u7LiGsV_qtRjxR9lVxDJ3cwFUTp9Yisnu8dLlKhs05rc5S5TE1Ev292ncPly/s1600-h/Mast+Raising+System+018+(Small).jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394834379059143522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_y7pyo3iW6SoA2_sVORQaozjcqXlqIVuxSYl7dOGrB9F9sg-40SGbxb5AU0WqkDMXkS0frDG6u7LiGsV_qtRjxR9lVxDJ3cwFUTp9Yisnu8dLlKhs05rc5S5TE1Ev292ncPly/s320/Mast+Raising+System+018+(Small).jpg" style="float: right; height: 240px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 320px;" /></a>achieving good windward performance. Others manage to sail well with wind indicators on their shrouds or a ribbon from the masthead and I compliment them on their ability to read the wind. However, a WINDEX 15, with the vanes set to the appropiate angles for a MATILDA (notice special bracket for mounting wind indicator), allows a helmsperson to notice and adjust for the slightest change in wind direction [THE WIND IS NEVER CONSTANT- THE ONLY THING CONSTANT ABOUT THE WIND IS THAT IT IS CONSTANTLY CHANGING]. A characteristic of the most proficient sailors is that they monitor the wind direction, frequently.<br />
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In my opinion, a sail boat that goes to windward well is a much more enjoyable craft to sail and results in a much safer, faster and more responsive vessel than the MATILDAS as they came from the builder.Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com111tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-1126792772285586312005-09-15T06:58:00.000-07:002008-05-21T16:54:17.024-07:00STAINLESS STEEL HANDRAILS PLUS COCKPIT DRAINS<span style="font-size:130%;">STAINLESS STEEL HANDRAILS</span><br /><br /><br /><div><div>Wooden handrails on a MATILDA are things of BEAUTY, but they do require a fair amount of maintenance to keep them looking PROPER. Another factor to consider is how structurally sound are they? After 30+ years of exposure to the elements, even with the best of care, the wood's strength [structure] may have deteriorated.<br />A case in point is that, the previous owner of our MATILDA was working on his boat, on the trailer, when he lost his footing and grabbed the handrail to break his fall. Unfortunately, the handrail followed him to the ground. Luckily, the only thing hurt was his pride.<br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%202.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%202.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%201.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%201.jpg" border="0" /></a>When doing the restoration of our boat, locating proper handrails was a challenge. We could find wooden replacement handrails that were close but NOT exactly a PROPER fit. Then, we found out about STAINLESS STEEL OUTFITTERS, located in Barrie, who made the original bow and stern pulpits for the MATILDA. Their handrails were reasonably priced, compared to something close in wood, and fitted the existing mounting pads exactly. Installing them was quite simple and straightforward and we can rest assured that if we ever need to avail ourselves of them, they will serve the purpose they were designed for + THEY WILL NEVER NEED MAINTENANCE!!</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><span style="font-size:130%;">COCKPIT DRAINS</span></div><br /><br /><div>One always assumes that the builder of a product has properly designed and built a product that will stand up to the test of time. This may not have been the case with our<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFpvImY2yLeTOMvREBWsJYFu0S12RGKeClfjYL9Dlx4G3TWnXyPHFQBiLP7aWUa6lDfLcUA09mgltxDXhwnB3GsE4NmFzNSi7weQrjteZJmcpQeX9PDv4EqgQQNA_XzGixmvxP/s1600-h/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+010+(Small).jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5202626016362833346" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFpvImY2yLeTOMvREBWsJYFu0S12RGKeClfjYL9Dlx4G3TWnXyPHFQBiLP7aWUa6lDfLcUA09mgltxDXhwnB3GsE4NmFzNSi7weQrjteZJmcpQeX9PDv4EqgQQNA_XzGixmvxP/s320/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+010+(Small).jpg" border="0" /></a> MATILDA. </div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>For example, while checking over our Matilda prior to launching in the spring of 2008, I was amazed to see something (?) protruding from the starboard cockpit drain exit in our transom. It turned out to be a copper (?) 1" O.D. drain tube. It was protruding out approx 1/2".</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div>Upon checking further, it was quite evident that the tube was very loose in the <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWx5zZUCEJHqCuUXhMsMeUvB46yi4GwGL-qwm_-erGZ9DVIPW7NSRh8HiV68IVWcPz5BWKRSnjnh-kpwEjnaOsvufxTDtuM49iIzEEEtYlcPZlw2qie7-s3Xa7uROJTI3J_hIt/s1600-h/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+021a+(Small).JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5202841743980176866" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWx5zZUCEJHqCuUXhMsMeUvB46yi4GwGL-qwm_-erGZ9DVIPW7NSRh8HiV68IVWcPz5BWKRSnjnh-kpwEjnaOsvufxTDtuM49iIzEEEtYlcPZlw2qie7-s3Xa7uROJTI3J_hIt/s320/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+021a+(Small).JPG" border="0" /></a>original placement but what shocked me even more was the fact that by working its way out, it was completly free of the rear of the cockpit wall. The fibreglass at the entry to the drain channel is only 3/16" thick.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div>Notice the gap at the bottom of the exit hole.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><span style="font-size:180%;">THIS SITUATION COULD BE QUITE CATASTROPHIC!</span></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><span style="font-size:180%;"></span></div><br /><div>#1 In the event of a heavy rain (1"or more), all the rain collected in the cockpit could find its way to the bilge.</div><br /><div>#2 In the event of significant wave action while the MATILDA is tied up at its dock, water splashing into the exit end of the drain tube could also end up in the bilge.</div><br /><div>#3 In the event of a heavily loaded MATILDA ( with several passengers in the cockpit, an outboard motor on the transom and a full fuel tank) enjoying a spirited afternoon of sailing, if the drain tube happened to dislodge while sailing, water could easily enter the transom exit and also find its way to the bilge.</div><br /><br /><br /><div>All of the above scenarios could result in the MATILDA slowly filling with water with no one being aware of the situation.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9EWHzSX2Lz02fveHdwl4zXG9cXQ-9O19H2SDOf5KVGflbAJv8gQOUa_4U6bT7OMDot8Xss9YIfpRTxaaTgLWz5L9KjcA_RmO4fW_jdNUsujvxvdxnsrZDoq1EBN6fhzrH8aTx/s1600-h/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+035+(Small).jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5202879380778591730" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9EWHzSX2Lz02fveHdwl4zXG9cXQ-9O19H2SDOf5KVGflbAJv8gQOUa_4U6bT7OMDot8Xss9YIfpRTxaaTgLWz5L9KjcA_RmO4fW_jdNUsujvxvdxnsrZDoq1EBN6fhzrH8aTx/s320/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+035+(Small).jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>To enable further investigation, the drain tube was removed, after making up a .875" O.D. expandable collet.</div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div>Upon examination of the tube, it was evident from the stains on the tube that there must have been some type of adhesive (?) on the outside of the tube that over a period of time period of 30+ years had deteriorated to the point that the tube was no longer restrained in its original position.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYHsVQm62CLRrU90y4-sv9cRfXCairvynjDMVu7-5eNwZaDqIw_oTg49ONEMPStCzBcwm37es-gxgKgE6W58kwo1G6pKsiVzTbZ8l-W2YyOuH5SgmxrZJCAfO40tebrxziHS4U/s1600-h/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+007a+(Small).JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5202882434500339202" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYHsVQm62CLRrU90y4-sv9cRfXCairvynjDMVu7-5eNwZaDqIw_oTg49ONEMPStCzBcwm37es-gxgKgE6W58kwo1G6pKsiVzTbZ8l-W2YyOuH5SgmxrZJCAfO40tebrxziHS4U/s320/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+007a+(Small).JPG" border="0" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><div>As the inner end of the tube only terminated in fibreglass that was 3/16" thick, when the tube moved towards the rear 1/2" the inner end was no longer supported in the rear cockpit wall. The outer end was supported thru the transom wall + 3/8" board glassed to the inside of the transom wall.</div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div>The starboard tube , as shot with digital camera from port lazarette.</div><br /><br /><br /><div>The port tube was removed quite easily as well.</div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><div>One of the benefits of this experience was that I learned a digital camera can be a very useful tool. Rather than cut and install a inspection port in the rear cockpit wall, I was able to poke a digital camera into the lazarette, point the camera in the general direction of what I wanted to capture and was able to take a excellent quality image of the situation.</div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div>My solution to this problem was to make up longer stainless steel tubes th<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzVO-bWibV8MdikThEZcmU9CsrFSY_hKzmpzzFfREAjbsuQnUZHSrZaYJ2heuBpEhWxEK0T9o6FL-0AL46D971SYjm4b4YJVHRwBPYblXViQRtq2a7mbfm5Lt_tS7l-hSZhELi/s1600-h/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+028+(Small).jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5202886493244433938" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzVO-bWibV8MdikThEZcmU9CsrFSY_hKzmpzzFfREAjbsuQnUZHSrZaYJ2heuBpEhWxEK0T9o6FL-0AL46D971SYjm4b4YJVHRwBPYblXViQRtq2a7mbfm5Lt_tS7l-hSZhELi/s320/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+028+(Small).jpg" border="0" /></a>at did not rely upon an adhesive to hold them in position but a mechanical fastening (stainless steel cotter pin) to ensure that they stayed in position. The tubes can only be inserted from the transom end as the built up cockpit floor prevents them from being inserted from the cockpit.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>The stainless steel tubes, which were a few thousands of an inch larger than the copper tubes,were a snug fit in the drain tubes holes. I elected to have them protrude thru the trans<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg129rhF7Fute1388eKeLA9EFmH_88hmT_lxR7gSF29o3BdWTYTj2ivCpWX-DMz1SVOIYckzGSHKFZa7QegRvPfYsh24n5YjDP2wb5i_ENnbErEXYPFlJc8iHc86_k9LkKeOGcR/s1600-h/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+022+(Small).jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5202891282132968994" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg129rhF7Fute1388eKeLA9EFmH_88hmT_lxR7gSF29o3BdWTYTj2ivCpWX-DMz1SVOIYckzGSHKFZa7QegRvPfYsh24n5YjDP2wb5i_ENnbErEXYPFlJc8iHc86_k9LkKeOGcR/s320/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+022+(Small).jpg" border="0" /></a>om by 1/2" so that any drain water from the cockpit would not run down the transom. Because of the increased size of the stainless tubes, I did not think it was necessary to use any adhesive as I know they cannot fall out. I will check the next time our MATILDA is out of the water for any seepage and I will certainly check the bilge for water each time we go sailing as our bige is normally dry.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>So a note of caution to all MATIDA owners to check that their cockpit drain tubes are in their proper position before launching their boats.</div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgizv-UTbiSp485qNH7lZMdrF-xjIxrd8AWZh1I5LQkh5V6f4ioeO-2lLNP5sHEGbM6y7fNORfiGcczDPODRH0C1QsLKJZpjGOeXlHsp5KbDCuQXwWkfmm69LKHZLJM8VoZpIqq/s1600-h/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+021+(Small).jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5202628370004911570" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 7px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 2px" height="240" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgizv-UTbiSp485qNH7lZMdrF-xjIxrd8AWZh1I5LQkh5V6f4ioeO-2lLNP5sHEGbM6y7fNORfiGcczDPODRH0C1QsLKJZpjGOeXlHsp5KbDCuQXwWkfmm69LKHZLJM8VoZpIqq/s320/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+021+(Small).jpg" width="7" border="0" /></a></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgizv-UTbiSp485qNH7lZMdrF-xjIxrd8AWZh1I5LQkh5V6f4ioeO-2lLNP5sHEGbM6y7fNORfiGcczDPODRH0C1QsLKJZpjGOeXlHsp5KbDCuQXwWkfmm69LKHZLJM8VoZpIqq/s1600-h/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+021+(Small).jpg"></a></div></div>Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com38tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-1126792701010219072005-09-15T06:55:00.000-07:002009-10-20T17:09:04.954-07:00MAST RAISING/LOWERING SYSTEMThe secret to having a SUCCESSFUL mast raising/lowering is to have control of the mast at ALL times.<br />One of the idiosyncrasies of raising/lowering a MATILDA mast is that the cabin hatch cover interferes with the mast if the mast is allowed to rest on the top of the rear pulpit, when the mast base is inserted in the mast step.<br />(If the mast has been removed from the boat, reattach lower shrouds to front chain plates, reattach upper shrouds to rear chainplates.)<br /><br />Outlined below is our solution to this problem.<br />Install wind indicator, etc.<br />Check shrouds are free to move aft.<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20006%20(Medium).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; FLOAT: right; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Mast%20Raising%20System%20006%20%28Medium%29.jpg" /></a><br />Install mast support over top bar of rear pulpit and tighten securely two wing nuts<br />Check halyards are free to move and properly installed.<br />If extra help is available, install a sturdy [preferably 1/2" yacht braid] line to the forestay so an individual can operate a safety line [he or she takes up the slack in the line when mast is raised and can also hold the mast in any position, in case a shroud or backstay gets snagged on something].<br />If boom vang/gooseneck downhaul is attached to aft pin hole in mast step, remove fittings.<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20002%20(Medium).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; FLOAT: right; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Mast%20Raising%20System%20002%20%28Medium%29.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">LIFT MAST FROM TRANSPORT POSITION TO MAST SUPPORT</span><br />When mast is supported by the mast support and front pulpit transport position, it can easily be moved aft on the mast support by one person and the mast base can be installed in the mast step.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20003%20(Medium).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; FLOAT: right; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Mast%20Raising%20System%20003%20%28Medium%29.jpg" width="200" height="179" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Brackets that attach to top of rear pulpit [keeps the support from moving up or fore and aft].<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20005%20(Medium).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; FLOAT: right; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Mast%20Raising%20System%20005%20%28Medium%29.jpg" /></a><br />Feet on support are restrained from moving forward by the lip on rear of cockpit [tiller can still function with mast support in position- GREAT if you have to lower mast to go under a bridge, etc].<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20004%20(Medium).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; FLOAT: right; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Mast%20Raising%20System%20004%20%28Medium%29.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br />Roller wheel and guides which allow mast to be moved aft by one person.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20005%20(Medium).jpg"></a><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">MOVE MAST AFT AND INSTALL IN MAST STEP</span><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"></span><br />Install bungee cords to hold turnbuckles upright.<br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20007%20(Medium).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; FLOAT: right; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Mast%20Raising%20System%20007%20%28Medium%29.jpg" width="200" height="150" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Mast base in mast step.<br />Notice bungee cord holding shrouds upright [reduces chance of bending turnbuckles when raising mast]<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20007%20(Medium).jpg"></a><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20009%20(Medium).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; FLOAT: right; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Mast%20Raising%20System%20009%20%28Medium%29.jpg" width="200" height="149" /></a><br />Mast ready to be raised.<br /><span style="font-size:130%;">DOUBLE CHECK</span><br />Wind indicator installed.<br />Turnbuckles held in upright position.<br />Shrouds are free.<br />Backstay free to raise. [ my preference is to drape the lower portion of the backstay over the rear pulpit and the upper portion out behind the boat]<br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20004%20(Medium).jpg"></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">RAISE MAST</span><br />One person stands in cockpit and lifts mast as high as possible.<br />Another person straddles mast and stands on cabin roof, bracing mast from moving sideways.<br />The safety person takes up the slack in the safety line.<br />The mast is pulled forward as far as possible and the forestay attached.<br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20005%20(Medium).jpg"></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20004%20(Medium).jpg"></a><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20009%20(Medium).jpg"></a><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20004%20(Medium).jpg"></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20004%20(Medium).jpg"></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20007%20(Medium).jpg"></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20Raising%20System%20009%20(Medium).jpg"></a>Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-69456570817245418842005-09-15T06:00:00.000-07:002014-06-05T16:35:49.242-07:00Revised Mast Raising/Lowering SystemPosted October 20, 2009.<br />
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The system described previously worked well but here is a suggestion for an excellent system for raising/lowering the mast on a MATILDA by one person, with a minimum of effort and completely under control.</div>
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This NEW and IMPROVED mast raising system is based on a fellow club member's mast raising system used on his MacGregor 26X.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2ta_YZTPEwiUdSAbS08gnYAKSw-xpY5UwgeUozjJA0VYcgaFGQTczJ7K_NO9kRBNbwr6OYIVd1UrDmwC9uE13r2J6o-YVpyhnmsXcBWiBcIS44kGavkpdgOIN0bXIwR0gxA23/s1600-h/macgregor+26X+mast+raising+system.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2ta_YZTPEwiUdSAbS08gnYAKSw-xpY5UwgeUozjJA0VYcgaFGQTczJ7K_NO9kRBNbwr6OYIVd1UrDmwC9uE13r2J6o-YVpyhnmsXcBWiBcIS44kGavkpdgOIN0bXIwR0gxA23/s320/macgregor+26X+mast+raising+system.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5395071815605201922" style="cursor: hand; float: right; height: 225px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 320px;" /></a>It was always a source of amazement to me that this experienced and knowledgable sailor could raise and lower his mast, by himself, with no undue excitement or mishaps as compared to some instances when someone slips and falls or happens to turn a turnbuckle the wrong way. It's always nice to have help when raising or lowering a mast but sometimes help doesn't appear when you are ready to proceed and accidents can happen. Also, I am a great believer in approaching and solving a problem with the right tools and equipment- I abhor the spectacle of a dramatic mast raising e.g. raising-of-the-flag-at- IWO-JIMA-routine-it's great when successful but the chance of a mishap is always there.<br />
As long as a mast is truly vertical, there is little chance of disaster but if the mast gets off to one side,you could be in real trouble as even the strongest deck ape could experience difficulty trying to bring it back to vertical.<br />
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Attaching a mast raising system might take a few moments more but you can be confident of the result. </div>
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Also, this approach is very well suited to any craft that has a furler installed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Mw1_EYzn9d0qo-ACeCldlW2wHvcaVCJSGQhFkpDmyL_WoH96eHSVdOK_1p3khoM3NU0DbWhf9Q3O4oFZY-UtKmVP0T4Qg8plnlCnGOMXmLwUksaPXSJ-zRRQnhIrMw6X9Wyu/s1600-h/Mast+Raising+System+026+(Small).jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Mw1_EYzn9d0qo-ACeCldlW2wHvcaVCJSGQhFkpDmyL_WoH96eHSVdOK_1p3khoM3NU0DbWhf9Q3O4oFZY-UtKmVP0T4Qg8plnlCnGOMXmLwUksaPXSJ-zRRQnhIrMw6X9Wyu/s320/Mast+Raising+System+026+(Small).jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5395062719667276850" style="cursor: hand; float: right; height: 240px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 320px;" /></a>The components of the mast raising system<br />
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#1 Brake winch - Dutton-Lainson #DLB350A or equivalent is ABSOLUTELY essential to control the mast raising effort with ease and confidence.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTXxeReEWgLFGAEKEYpMYj2x_OETmzHP8B0fjMO6nqjYrlZt4Roiml1HfX4iabhi0OPXPkdpcljjSZyls9xm-jQnAmkLJM-j8Yvi7MuBbBK9plG5LGwPT71DDUJIzr4Uv4NKMO/s1600-h/Mast+Raising+System+023+(Small).jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTXxeReEWgLFGAEKEYpMYj2x_OETmzHP8B0fjMO6nqjYrlZt4Roiml1HfX4iabhi0OPXPkdpcljjSZyls9xm-jQnAmkLJM-j8Yvi7MuBbBK9plG5LGwPT71DDUJIzr4Uv4NKMO/s320/Mast+Raising+System+023+(Small).jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5395061473004092418" style="cursor: hand; float: right; height: 240px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 320px;" /></a></div>
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#2 Pole with tangs to attach to mast step. It is necessary to drill a 3/8" diameter hole in the mast step to accept the pole tangs.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLWRDJWArBG-Ag2tAR1Xi1EixNjprZgb7ZxyDPsrbDYfvjOCKHOrEafX1LVsKvOxxq09R0y9eWjZ5RcqBszi6crefUSN6cqSSth-oeB14hSKV_6qUNrv2RzFbkb7cmpVjjh_1c/s1600-h/Mast+Raising+System+019+(Small).jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLWRDJWArBG-Ag2tAR1Xi1EixNjprZgb7ZxyDPsrbDYfvjOCKHOrEafX1LVsKvOxxq09R0y9eWjZ5RcqBszi6crefUSN6cqSSth-oeB14hSKV_6qUNrv2RzFbkb7cmpVjjh_1c/s320/Mast+Raising+System+019+(Small).jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5395060032332082098" style="cursor: hand; float: right; height: 240px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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#3 Bail for attachment to mast. It is necessary to drill a 1/4" hole in mast 6 feet up from the bottom of mast to accept the thru bolt for the bail and side stay tangs</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEuqpqiKDYtx9O6xydaRc5hezFurCd_wUIv-dyqtppBXwFJAdpLIvRXA1Gag27JFVAPw7vuipqYmCVZE5cumtsQnYqpROdAGZxVw_EdqqWzy4l5oadx2Pr0GRmSI0rEJt9PSjJ/s1600-h/Mast+Raising+System+022+(Small).jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEuqpqiKDYtx9O6xydaRc5hezFurCd_wUIv-dyqtppBXwFJAdpLIvRXA1Gag27JFVAPw7vuipqYmCVZE5cumtsQnYqpROdAGZxVw_EdqqWzy4l5oadx2Pr0GRmSI0rEJt9PSjJ/s320/Mast+Raising+System+022+(Small).jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5395202914140596882" style="cursor: hand; float: right; height: 240px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 320px;" /></a></div>
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#4 Top quality rope. The rope to hold the gin pole in position should be marked to indicate the correct angle of the pole and tied securely to the foredeck cleat. also make sure the cleat is securely anchored for an upward pull.</div>
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#5 Eye straps for attaching ropes to pole and pulley for rope to bail.</div>
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#6 Tangs and wire rope for side stays for mast.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt3AHac7RifGAo_A0f6y0CLmmUo-qVBrc_IK_0L8YEkAWWC0lUDDG402yG_JBNZe4H3J_KoyeZjqU5ATnJxg5qikQcIsWVGR6kdMoF-aKyIDeoF7jihIJeYYHLn_qfLuvwU5L2/s1600-h/Mast+Raising+System+033+(Small).jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt3AHac7RifGAo_A0f6y0CLmmUo-qVBrc_IK_0L8YEkAWWC0lUDDG402yG_JBNZe4H3J_KoyeZjqU5ATnJxg5qikQcIsWVGR6kdMoF-aKyIDeoF7jihIJeYYHLn_qfLuvwU5L2/s320/Mast+Raising+System+033+(Small).jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5395067897496226306" style="cursor: hand; float: right; height: 240px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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#7 Attachment brackets for lower end of side stays.<br />
<span style="font-size: 180%;">Absolutely essential</span> that the pivot points of the side stays be on the same pivot point as the mast step bolt.</div>
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The brackets attach easily to our stainless steel handrails with two 1/4"-20 bolts. The brackets ride on ultra high density polyethylene runners above and below the handrail to ensure the stainless handrail does not get scratched. The bracket is prevented from moving aft by the UHDPE hitting the attachment post.</div>
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Starboard anchor bracket.<br />
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The complete mast raising system (with the exception of the side stay anchors and the upper tangs) can be purchased from a local MacGregor dealer for around $200.00. You will have to devise an side stay anchor system that is compatible with your boat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrTkMaVRGU0undJWkoI1bRqyNZpQgejH-FA5rNpudT5dN5KlaGDzwwowIpZYzjhyQ90TTzuoe_B9AAtt8i4WHutmbEsY1R88UD1v_47mwax5vDQmTHqvoRPZBtzUskRgyByUV5/s1600-h/Mast+Raising+System+025+(Small).jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrTkMaVRGU0undJWkoI1bRqyNZpQgejH-FA5rNpudT5dN5KlaGDzwwowIpZYzjhyQ90TTzuoe_B9AAtt8i4WHutmbEsY1R88UD1v_47mwax5vDQmTHqvoRPZBtzUskRgyByUV5/s320/Mast+Raising+System+025+(Small).jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5395054196502436850" style="cursor: hand; float: right; height: 240px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Mast raising system installed and everything is ready to go.<br />
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The mast is halfway up and everything is under control. You can lower it if necessary or even walk away and leave it for a moment.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUVmwZqfxcUwcdNq3Vy44mK4yQWgu8izjdQtOIV1iPNXr8nERalaWXiDwVEV7AySK71Bw3saufTIfyEBFDKzO5GOUgNFyMvq82jpjV0UPe5_ApQxJJe6K7dxlHsixlbCGUCY14/s1600-h/Mast+Raising+System+031+(Small).jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUVmwZqfxcUwcdNq3Vy44mK4yQWgu8izjdQtOIV1iPNXr8nERalaWXiDwVEV7AySK71Bw3saufTIfyEBFDKzO5GOUgNFyMvq82jpjV0UPe5_ApQxJJe6K7dxlHsixlbCGUCY14/s320/Mast+Raising+System+031+(Small).jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5395052206335155730" style="cursor: hand; float: right; height: 320px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 240px;" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUVmwZqfxcUwcdNq3Vy44mK4yQWgu8izjdQtOIV1iPNXr8nERalaWXiDwVEV7AySK71Bw3saufTIfyEBFDKzO5GOUgNFyMvq82jpjV0UPe5_ApQxJJe6K7dxlHsixlbCGUCY14/s1600-h/Mast+Raising+System+031+(Small).jpg"></a><br /></div>
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The mast successfully raised by one person with no excitement or drama. The bend in the mast is quite evident <br />
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which ensures that the forestay can be easily attached.</div>
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Raising a MATILDA mast should be effortless with the proper planning and equipment. It should not be the situation where you are going to raise your mast and everyone runs the other way.</div>
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P.S. May I suggest having a look at previous posting if you have not already done so.</div>
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MAST RAISING/LOWERING SYSTEM contained a lot of useful tips regarding mast support, bungee cord on shrouds, reminder about wind indicator installation, etc..</div>
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Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com416tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-1126730489691785122005-09-14T13:39:00.000-07:002006-08-06T16:40:05.263-07:00JIB TACK LEADER PLUS DECKSWEEPER PLUS TRAVELLER"<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Matilda%20tack%20leader.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="205" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Matilda%20tack%20leader.jpg" width="160" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:130%;">THE CHORD IS THE KEY</span> "<br /><span style="font-size:130%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">Definition: [SAIL POWER-page 54]- The chord is a straight line drawn horizontally from the luff to the leech at any height in the sail</span><br /><span style="font-size:78%;"></span><br />Having the proper foresail sheet fairlead location, ensuring proper leach and foot tension, is essential to the foresail [jib or genoa] performing well on a MATILDA. Many MATILDAS use the gunnel track fairlead block for trimming their jib foresail as well as their genoa foresail. Both sails require the proper fairlead location to perform well. The gunnel track is ideal for beam and broad reaches with a genoa foresail, however when going to windward with the jib foresail, the outside track is less than ideal. Many other boats use a similar gunnel track [because it is convenient] but not many other boats have the broad beam to length ratio of a MATILDA.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">Athwartship Location[sheeting angle]</span> <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/SHEETING%20ANGLES.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/SHEETING%20ANGLES.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />The biggest area of concern is the angle of the foresail fairlead block location. Using the outside track, with the block right at the front of the track, gives you a sheeting angle of 24degrees, when you should have an angle of 10-12degrees to allow the jib and mainsail to complement each other [as well to properly tension the foot and the leach of the jib]. Moving the fairlead aft, as when using a genoa foresail, the angle decreases to less than 24degrees [under the rear corner of the window gives a sheeting angle of approx. 18degrees] which is acceptable for beam and broad reaches. This observation explains why MATILDA owners, who install a genoa foresail and head out in medium strength winds, find their craft performs reasonably well, but then the breeze freshens and they decide to switch to the jib foresail [because of the reduced sail area] and then find out they can not perform to windward as well with the smaller sail.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">Fore and Aft Location</span><br />For a starting point for the fore and aft location of the fairlead, [for a jib with the following dimensions foot=104", luff=264", leach=244"] it should be on the extension of a line drawn from a point 60% up the luff through the clew [ this position has to be adjusted depending on wind strength].<br /><br />Sailing by the luff is a time honoured method of sailing to windward but keeping the jib sail just on the verge of luffing is very demanding of the helmsperson. It is easy to see when you are sailing too close to the wind [the sail shakes at the leading edge and you need to fall off the wind a bit] but it is difficult to determine when you are sailing too far off the wind. A good masthead wind indicator helps [mine keeps telling me to head up when sail is not on the verge of luffing] and telltales on the front part of the sail-back about 8" from the leading edge and placed at 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 up the leading edge-help to tell you how to improve the trim of your sail.<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%202.2.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%202.2.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The leader is made up of 1/8" 1X19 stainless wire with a thimble nicropressed on each end[two sleeves used on each end because of the slow spiral of 1X19 wire] to give an overall length of 10" [14" would have been a better length] in an effort to raise the sail to give an improved fore&aft location because the front end of the tracks terminate at the chainplates.<br /><br />If you can not move the fairlead forward, RAISE THE SAIL. Raising the sail allows you to achieve a tight leach, without tensioning the foot too much, which reduces the power of the sail.<br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/SHEETING%20ANGLES.0.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/SHEETING%20ANGLES.0.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Installing a leader on the jib sail of a MATILDA will help to improve the windward ability by a limited amount and will eliminate the spectacle of a jib sail with a very open leech.<br /><br />However, the biggest improvement in a MATILDA's pointing ability will be achieved with the installation of inboard jib sheet fairlead tracks. [See INBOARD JIB SHEET FAIRLEAD TRACKS]<br /><br />P.S. It is essential to have a leader if you are going to install inboard jib sheet fairlead tracks.<br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">DECKSWEEPER JIB</span><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Scotty%20and%20Escape.0.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/Scotty%20and%20Escape.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Several people have commented that having a leader on the tack of the foresail raises the foot of the foresail which loses the decksweeper effect of the foresail.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />As you can see in the above photo, the MATILDA on the right with a raised jib, appears to have a larger bow wave [going faster??] than the one on the left, with a decksweeper genoa. Both are using the gunnel track for fairlead location. A craft with a flush foredeck is a different story but a MATILDA with the front of the cabin in the airstream [which probably has a negative effect] will not benefit greatly. In my opinion, it is more important to direct the power of the wind to where it can be utilized e.g. the leeward side of the main, than it is to capture all the wind and direct it over an area where it will have no effect e.g. the area below the main sail.<br />In my opinion, the ability to have a tight leach on the jib, that parallels the main sail rather than an open leach, is more critical than a decksweeping foresail.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/slot.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 241px" height="241" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/slot.jpg" width="320" border="0" /></a><br />The Slot effect from MAXIMUM SAIL POWER<br />by Brian Hancock<br />Chapter 15 page 241 Circulation Theory<br />[An excellent treatise on the latest thoughts on the slot effect]<br />In order for two sails to have a symbiotic relationship, they have to be in relatively close proximity to one another [24degrees is too far apart for the sails to impact one another]<br />P.S. It is interesting to note that the chord of the foresail in the illustration is approximately 14degrees.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">TRAVELLER</span><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/traveller.0.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/traveller.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />A traveller is a very useful tool for controlling the main sail in relation to the centerline of the boat as well as influencing the shape [power] of the sail.<br /><br />Advantages<br />#1. Moving the traveller to leeward, when encountering strong winds, can have an amazing effect on the heeling of a tender craft[See the next 2 photos and accompaning tale]<br />#2. Moving the traveller to windward, in light airs, allows you to move the boom to the centerline of the boat [which allows you to point higher] without flattening [depowering] the main sail.<br />#3. Changing to mid-boom sheeting, with a traveller allows you to change from an unsatisfactory main sheet system which is not suitable for windward work.<br /><br /><br />It is worth mentioning, at this point, that Roger Macgregor, the boat building minimalist, has added a traveller to his latest effort, the NEW 26M. Roger, you can be sure would only add something if it would benefit the boat.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">ADVANTAGE #1</span><br /><br />They say that a picture is worth a 1,000 words so I will let the next two pictures speak for themselves . Photos from SAIL POWER by Wallace Ross page 132<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/pattie2%20(Small).jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/pattie2%20%28Small%29.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Main sheet in centre position<br />[NO EFFECT OF TRAVELLER]<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/intrpid%20(Small).jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/intrpid%20%28Small%29.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Main sheet to leeward<br />[TRAVELLER AFFECTING MAIN SAIL]<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />These two pictures show how differences in trim affect a boat's ability to stand up and to point. DAME PATTIE has her mainsheet trimmed much too close to the centerline and as a result is heeling way over, while INTREPID is trimmed correctly, thus keeping on her feet and making good headway.<br /><br />After viewing the above photos, I elected to add a traveller to our K-D, with mid-boom sheeting with advantage #1 in mind.<br />An enlightening tale follows.<br />On a blustery day at the Wildwood Sailing Club, we noticed a CL16 running down the lake and decided to see if we could catch him. We did manage to pull alongside him, at the end of the lake and we both proceeded to come about for the beat back up the lake. After our first tack, I knew we were in for a challenge because of the strong winds. On our second tack, I moved the traveller to leeward about 8" and an amazing change occurred. We were no longer sailing in survival mode [ using all our talents to keep the boat from capsizing] but were making excellent progress to windward, without the potentially dangerous heeling that we were encountering without the traveller. We proceeded to make further excellent progress to windward but our sailing friend [ a very skilled sailor] continued to proceed back and forth across the lake but was not making much progress up the lake [he was just trying his best to keep his craft afloat].<br />Halfway back to the club, another skilled and knowledgeable sailor, with his wooden sloop that he fancies is quite a racer, elected to change his course and join us in the beat back to the club. After his first tack, he knew that he was in for a challenge but managed to keep going to windward in extreme conditions. He also was not making much progress to windward but was flying from one side of the lake to the other. We proceeded to the club under relatively pleasant conditions as the other two boats continued to thrash back and forth across the lake.<br />I WAS REALLY AMAZED AND IMPRESSED. Just 8" to leeward made all the difference between a sail in challenging conditions to a sail in less demanding circumstances. I know it is very satisfying to survive a sail under demanding conditions [Yes, I too, have kissed the "terra firma" after surviving a interesting sail] but it is comforting to know that going to windward doesn't have to be so punishing if your craft is properly equipped for such conditions.What is really amazing is that we made so much progress to windward and were far, far more comfortable.<br />Prior to installing the traveller, our technique for sailing to windward in strong winds, was to sheet the jib as tightly as possible [the jib alone should never have enough power to capsize you] and luff the main when capsizing seemed imminent and NEVER, I repeat, NEVER cleat the mainsheet.This technique has served us well in the past, until the wind gets so powerful that it gets under the hull [because you are on such an angle of heel] and you find that easing the main has no effect and then, you go swimming with your boat.<br />When you are sailing to windward, you are tempted to pull the main sheet as tight as possible [pulling the boom to the centerline] so that you can point as high as possible. You also want the boom as low as possible to flatten the sail [flat sail reduces power in strong winds]. This is a recipe for trouble as it results in excessive heeling. Having a traveller allows you to pull the boom down [flattening the sail], without pulling the boom to the centerline.<br />Another aspect that became clear was that a rope and pulley system for adjusting the traveller car was not really necessary, as adjustable stops, set by just retracting a pin, was more than adequate for beating to windward with a traveller.<br /><br />So, to all the tender boat owners out there, adding a traveller to your craft, will allow you to cope when the wind strength increases.<br /><br />I question whether a traveller is really necessary on a MATILDA as the craft is so inherently stable and will stand up well <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Matilda%20mainsheet%20system.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="240" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/Matilda%20mainsheet%20system.jpg" width="320" border="0" /></a>to increased wind much better than a more tender craft. In fact, our MATILDA seldom ever reaches the angle of heel that our K-D sailed consistently well at [like it was on rails] with the one side under water and the water coming in at the front of the seat and exiting at the rear of the seat.This opinion may change after I have converted our MATILDA to mid-boom sheeting. It may be found that a mid- boom sheeting system allows you to pull the boom much closer to the centerline than the existing CROSBY rig does, which may dictate the necessity of a traveller.<br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">ADVANTAGE #2</span><br />Moving the traveller car to windward, in light air, should allow a boat to point higher by pulling the boom to the centerline without exerting significant downward pressure on the boom, [ flattening the sails]. In light air, you want the sail shape to be full and powerful.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">ADVANTAGE #3</span><br />The original main sheet configuration [CROSBY RIG] of a MATILDA leav<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Crosby%20rig.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/Crosby%20rig.jpg" border="0" /></a>es a lot to be desired for Sailing to Windward.<br />A. When you are on a starboard tack, the main sheet comes across the cockpit and you can easily control the main sheet [cleat, release, adjust in or out].<br />B. When you are on a port tack, the main sheet is behind you and you must some how manage to cleat and uncleat the main sheet. Certainly not an ideal situation if you are in gusty winds where you must be prepared to uncleat the main sheet immediately when a gust hits and tighten the main sheet when there is a lull.<br />C. The CROSBY RIG configuration does not pull the boom to the centerline adequately. Once you are at point A on the travel of the boom, you are close to the limit of how close to the centerline you can move the boom with the mainsheet.<br />D. End of boom sheeting is less preferable to mid-boom sheeting because when you are attached to the end of the boom, pulling down on the end does not exert any effort [ other than the structural strength of the boom] on the mid point of the boom, where the sail [ because of the wind's pressure] is trying to pull the boom up. A mid-boom sheeting system puts the downward pull of the main sheet directly under the sails upward pull.<br />E. Use of a traveller at the end of the boom has to have twice as much range of movement to be as effective as a mid-boom attachment point, e.g. 8" of mid-boom movement dictates 16" of movement at the end of the boom.<br />F. Use of a traveller [which some people call a horse] between the stanchions of the rear pulpit has a limited range of movement- 13" range of movement divided by 2 = an offset of 6 1/2", at end of boom, equals 3 1/4" on a mid-boom arrangement. But the biggest problem is the tremendous aft pull of the mainsheet. There is a MATILDA at the W.S.C., with the horse [traveller between the stanchions ] as original equipment and he has had the boom detach from the gooseneck because of the aft pull of the mainsheet [ the nut holding the spring mechanism for the rolling boom furler became undone]. Definitely not something you need to happen in strong winds. So if you have the HORSE set up, be sure to use loc-tite on that nut.<br />G. Using end of boom sheeting [whether CROSBY RIG or HORSE ] tends to make the helmsperson sit towards the rear of the cockpit seat. A mid-boom sheeting system tends to move the helmsperson to the middle of the seat [ a definite plus as the last thing a MATILDA needs for proper boat trim is to have more weight in the stern of the boat].<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Matilda%20mainsheet%20system.jpg"></a>Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-78654430212577595352005-09-14T13:38:00.000-07:002010-02-03T11:23:06.565-08:00Revised Traveller SystemPosted October 7, 2009<br /><br /><br /><div><div><div>Outlined below is a very simple and inexpensive alternative to a conventional traveller system.</div><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxIlbU1mT5Cne0_4zY_J1H-uvbGWJGY68PYgwmFWC89UEXHvJAQ1e-uGhdIxFFBAv90SLtLO0fm1kraUQEdBBMpYr7K_muyp5A8LY-ugggmE5DxQ4obPTqBjpb8yZ8OA5UhGSa/s1600-h/Siren+with+traveller+(Small).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 255px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389923735137754482" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxIlbU1mT5Cne0_4zY_J1H-uvbGWJGY68PYgwmFWC89UEXHvJAQ1e-uGhdIxFFBAv90SLtLO0fm1kraUQEdBBMpYr7K_muyp5A8LY-ugggmE5DxQ4obPTqBjpb8yZ8OA5UhGSa/s320/Siren+with+traveller+(Small).jpg" /></a><br /></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br />The basic idea for an inexpensive traveller system for our MATILDA grew from this photo on the SIREN OWNER'S Website. The idea was originated (I believe) by Pat Regan.</div><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><br /><br />This seems like a good opportunity to mention another great suggestion for individuals who like to make modifications to their boats at a reasonable cost. What follows is based on my experiences with E-BAY purchases.</div><br /><div>In my misspent youth, I was a member of the Stratford Auto Club. One of my fondest memories of that time is spending many a Saturday morning touring the automobile wrecking yards (e.g Chants in London) looking for parts to replace damaged car parts from mishaps on rallies, driving skill tests, gymkhanas, ice racing, driving around Mosport etc. Since becoming involved in sailing, I have always regretted the fact that there are no boat wrecking yards, only marine chandlery stores selling high priced new parts for sailboats.<br />However, I believe I have found a good solution in the cyber store of e-bay sailboat equipment and gear. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj07BjAKaFUnLcjfr83dKjWWx2ud_wp6YRi7MewfsQ-PKMAPFNnS5p5Dr7-Sw2jK4Df0A8cbaf3k97p_AxLgJ3Oc9OUg__ecjlBfGjVq2nFPuiGKNNpCVyQNUD_yjqithVOmhwP/s1600-h/Original+Main++Sheet+Anchor+(Small).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5390282875282686482" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj07BjAKaFUnLcjfr83dKjWWx2ud_wp6YRi7MewfsQ-PKMAPFNnS5p5Dr7-Sw2jK4Df0A8cbaf3k97p_AxLgJ3Oc9OUg__ecjlBfGjVq2nFPuiGKNNpCVyQNUD_yjqithVOmhwP/s320/Original+Main++Sheet+Anchor+(Small).jpg" /></a><br />My first experience has proven very successful. We have had a problem with the main sheet swivel cam cleat support arm bending from engaging the main sheet in the cam cleat (this arm was not designed to take the pressures associated with the main sheet demands of a Matilda), with the result that sometimes when we thought the main sheet was securely cleated, it would release under pressure from high winds on the main sail, and then it was a frantic grab to recleat it properly. I have bent the arm back to its proper position on several occasions but it always bent again.<br />I have checked for replacement cam cleat swivels<br />Ronstan RF8 at a cost of $ 260.00 CDN + GST + PST<br />Harken #144 at a cost of $120.00 CDN + GST + PST<br />I spotted a Harken #144 (item #140042223965) on e-bay (although the ad did not specify this) for the unbelievable starting bid on $19.99, and it also included an excelle<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjBSebz1vZNp8g-nEciXsczIMVvoWFTrWB_58w_v320lOYtHpV3mZ52N-Sb1rpNC-bNRwh-JiQxYlTPwEBrzAfdDln9dvrVJkJh3jBdIt4CFu1M41UNUB8pLX4F7vsKqw7t1e9/s1600-h/Harken+swivel+base+with+block.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 241px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389914324234959330" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjBSebz1vZNp8g-nEciXsczIMVvoWFTrWB_58w_v320lOYtHpV3mZ52N-Sb1rpNC-bNRwh-JiQxYlTPwEBrzAfdDln9dvrVJkJh3jBdIt4CFu1M41UNUB8pLX4F7vsKqw7t1e9/s320/Harken+swivel+base+with+block.jpg" /></a>nt Harken block ( itself worth about $25.00 US). The bidding eventually worked its way up to $36.00 US where I was the top bidder. With the addition of $8.95 US for shipping, the total cost was $36.00 + $8.95 =$44.95 US + 13% exchange = $50.79 CDN.(plus no G.S.T.&P.S.T.) The item was shipped from New Jersey on October 23/06 and was delivered to our door on Nov 1/06.<br />The end result was that a superb solution to our problem was accomplished for less than half the price of a new part, and I received a Harken block as a bonus.<br />It is my belief that many good quality stainless and aluminum parts for sailboats do not deteriorate to any great extent over the years, and when a boat is wrecked, parts can live on. </div><div><br />I am sure that many other Wildwood Sailing Club members have had similar favourable e-bay experiences.</div><br /><br /><div><br /><br />So, with the above experience in mind, we embarked on a quest to install a functional traveller on "WALTZING MATILDA" at a reasonable cost.</div><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7utdgaIEXGNyQCCn5nQS6AhjYUBP78_ygMrZCk5UgsEo1-34EmdqeM8SkOEBsCc4omydsEqLFI0mFRB6K9GM_MxoxiI98_PFJL5rF3Tmx36A7MfkMHLPcTr4c5aMTUhebEy1/s1600-h/Matilda+Traveller+011+(Small).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389917568161312754" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7utdgaIEXGNyQCCn5nQS6AhjYUBP78_ygMrZCk5UgsEo1-34EmdqeM8SkOEBsCc4omydsEqLFI0mFRB6K9GM_MxoxiI98_PFJL5rF3Tmx36A7MfkMHLPcTr4c5aMTUhebEy1/s320/Matilda+Traveller+011+(Small).jpg" /></a><br /></div><br /><br /><div>The Schaefer stainless fiddle block, universal head, adjustable cam #505-76 was an E-BAY purchase (list price West Marine-2008 cat. $175.00+freight=$12.00+ 10% exchange=$18.70+5%G.S.T.=$10.29+8%P.S.T.=$16.46 =<strong>$232.45</strong>) purchased on E-BAY for (52.00+freight=$11.86 =<strong>$63.86</strong>)</div><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /></div><br /><div>One objective was not to install a conventional traveller car and track with mid boom sheeting on the step into the cabin as that might interfere with access to the cabin and might get stepped on.<br /><br /></div><br /><br /><div></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDmZ6n_nuVabKIY6SMCWwd84h_AGTBh7JDFL372jD8GPfL1ALdci5h-LcYJ07BXqUvX436Kmsb1BJaiTfTVgqJhWHV132G_0w4zk5qjkOhRfc3_9Edk0sOD_zQyLe8gL6yWqMS/s1600-h/Matilda+Traveller+005+(Small).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389919316509911762" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDmZ6n_nuVabKIY6SMCWwd84h_AGTBh7JDFL372jD8GPfL1ALdci5h-LcYJ07BXqUvX436Kmsb1BJaiTfTVgqJhWHV132G_0w4zk5qjkOhRfc3_9Edk0sOD_zQyLe8gL6yWqMS/s320/Matilda+Traveller+005+(Small).jpg" /></a><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /></div><br /><div>View of port anchor for mainsheet traveller.<br /><br /></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN5chBjwj4R8TOBpUFYaglZzzPAwdiECgrqgTTjD95uEWvOwp70iCaJxRYx3Sx6VkGRfHSN4P2HSQvXf6WX72NcLnEKAZCsBabQyWmFILynv58h__p8S8xTvokFPNOndaxfJ0L/s1600-h/Matilda+Traveller+004+(Small).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389921866403676514" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN5chBjwj4R8TOBpUFYaglZzzPAwdiECgrqgTTjD95uEWvOwp70iCaJxRYx3Sx6VkGRfHSN4P2HSQvXf6WX72NcLnEKAZCsBabQyWmFILynv58h__p8S8xTvokFPNOndaxfJ0L/s320/Matilda+Traveller+004+(Small).jpg" /></a><br /><br /></div><br /><div>View of starboard anchor for mainsheet traveller.</div><br /><div>(Since this photo was taken, this anchor has been replaced with a Harken #144 identical to port side and also purchased on E-BAY).<br /></div><div>Both anchors have substanial 1/4" aluminum backing plates installed.</div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div>This main sheet system has performed well for the last season (2009) and allows us to offset the mainsheet anchor to leeward, to flatten the main in strong winds and to offset the mainsheet anchor to windward, in light winds to maintain a full powerful sail. In normal sailing conditions, the mainsheet anchor system remains in the middle and falls ready to hand as compared to trying to reach behind you to uncleat or tighten the main sheet when on a starboard tack.</div><div></div><div>Another item that has proven to be very satisfactory are the Harken #150 cam cleats as they release and cleat without any great effort and do not abrade the sheets as much as the other cam cleats did.</div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div>A track with adjustable stops might be an improvement but this alternative does work well and just requires a little extra work to adjust the main sheet anchor position.</div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEaUs3KO8i5Ya2gne3-OGotXUdI0la81wlZJ0AeByqBg85jBvVPFdNO17YJApMY1QxLohH8QE2Tehr04qyMzTKRkfNvap89t9loH9-wBGHs03YOxCU_c4PEIgAkROrertgNnH/s1600-h/Matilda+Traveller+002+(Small).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5390318112519647458" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNEaUs3KO8i5Ya2gne3-OGotXUdI0la81wlZJ0AeByqBg85jBvVPFdNO17YJApMY1QxLohH8QE2Tehr04qyMzTKRkfNvap89t9loH9-wBGHs03YOxCU_c4PEIgAkROrertgNnH/s320/Matilda+Traveller+002+(Small).jpg" /></a></div><div></div><div>This is another approach to installing a traveller on a MATILDA.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>A stainless tube was attached to the rear pulpit support tubes and a traveller track was bolted to the tube.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>The stainless set screws were replaced with 1/4"- 28 T.P.I. bolts that extended thru the fitting to trap the back of the tube.</div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><div></div></div></div>Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-1126730334692004892005-09-14T13:37:00.000-07:002008-02-03T12:11:02.224-08:00GOOSENECK DOWNHAUL AND BOOM VANG ANCHOR<span style="font-size:130%;">Light winds=low tension/ </span><span style="font-size:130%;">Strong winds=high tension</span><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/boom%20vang%20and%20gooseneck%20downhaul%20#2"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/boom%20vang%20and%20gooseneck%20downhaul%20%232%20jpg.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Having a tight mainsail luff in strong winds, is essential to a MATILDA or any other sailboat performing well.<br />The secret to having a tight luff is to not only have the mainsail halyard pulled as tight as possible, with the sail pulled as high as practical, but to have a system to pull the gooseneck fitting down as well, and to hold it down securely. I am always amazed that even though the main halyard is pulled as tight as feasible, it is always possible to pull the gooseneck fitting down 6-8", which assures that you have a tight luff for strong winds. It is even more critical to have a gooseneck downhaul if your mainsail does not have slugs in the sail track, which allow the sail to slide more freely in the groove.<br /><br />If the luff is not tensioned properly (low tension in light winds/high tension in strong winds), you will observe the following results.<br /><br /><br />#1 If the luff tension is too high in light winds, your sail will be very flat and not have much "belly" (draught) and consequently you will have not as much power as you could have to propel your craft and you will probably have a vertical crease right behind the mast.<br />#2 If the luff tension is too low in stronger winds, you will notice deep creases up the luff of the sail and as well you will have a sail with a very deep "belly" (draught) which will be drawn aft as the wind strengh increases. This powerful sail will cause you to heel more than a flatter sail would and as well, having the draught further aft will cause the boat to round up more readily than with a flatter sail.<br />#3 The same principles that apply to the luff of a sail also apply to the foot of a sail. Proper tension on the OUTHAUL will also affect the shape of the sail (light winds=low tension/strong winds=high tension).<br /><br /><br />A gooseneck downhaul, in my opinion, is much preferable to a CUNNINGHAM system for tensioning the luff of a sail.<br />P.S.One needs to devise a system of supporting the boom, when installing the sail cover so that the lowest slug does not take all the weight of the boom.<br /><br />The following is an excerpt from "UNDERSTANDING RIGS AND RIGGING" by Richard Henderson, concerning downhauls.<br />The lines that pull down on a sail are important because they apply tension to the luff, thereby affecting the sail's smoothness and, more importantly, its draft or camber. Considerable tension on the luff tends to flatten the sail and move the draft forward, a great benefit when beating in fresh winds. A slack luff increases draft and moves it aft, such a shape being beneficial in light breezes and for reaching or running in almost any strength of wind.<br />I prefer that the forward end of the boom be attached to a mast track (at least a short one) with the downhaul pulling the boom, rather than just the sail, down. However, many racers have their booms fixed in the vertical direction to optimize their handicap ratings. With a mast track, the luff length is measured to the bottom of the track unless a black band is put around the mast at a point beyond which the foot of the mast cannot be lowered. When the vertical movement of the boom is fixed, a cunningham downhaul is used. This consists of a line passing through a grommet several feet up from the tack of the sail, the line being used to haul the grommet down, thereby tightening the luff. A minor problem with the cunningham alone is that it will form a prominent crease in the sail's foot. This does little harm, but the sail would set better and perhaps be a trifle faster without the distortion.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">HALYARDS</span><br /><br /><br /><br />Reasons for a Tight Luff (from page 11, Aug. 2007- Practical Sailor)<br /><br />Regardless of sail type or deck gear, one factor always affects the choice of line for any halyard, and that is stretch. When the goal is to get the best performance out of a sail, its halyard should stretch as little as possible when it comes under additional load from a freshening breeze or sailing closer to the wind. When a halyard stretches, it allows the sail fabric to move aft. The draft of the sail moves with it. This results in the driving force rotating aft, creating more heeling moment and more weather helm. The boat is sailing less efficiently than it could, and you may be forced to reef earlier than you otherwise would..<br />As its fabric pulls aft, a sail on a mast track will scallop between the slides, and horizontal wrinkles will form at the slides. Apart from looking unseamanlike and making life less pleasant aboard, this also puts uneven stress on the sail fabric, which could—depending on how much sailing you do under these conditions—shorten its useful life<br />By the same token, if you have an aging sail that’s rather stretchy along the luff, you could eke another season or two out of it while you save up for a new one by spending a couple of hundred dollars on a less stretchy halyard. The halyard you bought will still be good for the new sail a few years down the road.<br />Creep is a fiber’s taffy-like gradual elongation over time while under a static tensile load, and given how most sailors today are relying on at least one permanently hoisted sail, this factor will likely come into play.<br /><br /><br /><br />Matilda's are most fortunate to have wire halyards with almost zero stretch (0.1%).<br /><br />Other boats are not so fortunate in that they have an all rope halyard as original equipment and many of these boats have been converted to having the ability to control the main and jib halyards from the cockpit. As a result many of these boat's owners have resorted to extreme measures to ensure a tight luff but the simplest of these is the adjustable gooseneck or a cunningham control system. One W.S.C. member, with a Siren, would tie a trucker's hitch in the main halyard which gave hi<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2MwE3C1XrL7CE6aTB6xA6ZhypXy82zkFLn-GOUwItTmj7hRz01HEbPvG-Kt5Rs9T8YZLc4d2XCKll2x9k8nDrSzCqacWXWR0KD-WU8KGc7KTCNcQgvplfsfT3gd9qH8xLhPAf/s1600-h/Halyard+Stretch+%5BWest+Marine%5D+(Small).jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5156544153581250338" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2MwE3C1XrL7CE6aTB6xA6ZhypXy82zkFLn-GOUwItTmj7hRz01HEbPvG-Kt5Rs9T8YZLc4d2XCKll2x9k8nDrSzCqacWXWR0KD-WU8KGc7KTCNcQgvplfsfT3gd9qH8xLhPAf/s320/Halyard+Stretch+%5BWest+Marine%5D+(Small).jpg" border="0" /></a>m a 2 to 1 advantage in tensioning the main halyard but then he had the problem of removing the hitch when he was done sailing for the day in order to install the main sail cover.<br /><br />The new HIGH-TECH ropes for halyards can definitely improve your windward sail shape as compared to dacron double braid which will stretch by approximately 4% quite readily. On a 30 ft. halyard, 4% stretch means that the top of the sail can slide down the mast by as much as 14 inches.<br />P.S. You can always tell who has low stretch halyards, after boats have been sailing in strong winds for a while, by the size of the creases in their sails. So if you notice your mainsail exhibiting lots of creases up the luff after sailing in strong winds,<br />#1 Turn into the wind.<br />#2 Slacken off gooseneck downhaul and vang.<br />#3 Tighten main halyard.<br />#4 Tighten gooseneck downhaul and vang and enjoy the benefits of a tight mainsail luff in strong winds.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%204.2.jpg"></a><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/mast%20step1.1.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/mast%20step1.0.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />HARDWARE<br />It was found that the original fitting for the boom vang anchor was excellent for the purpose it was designed for (to act as an anchor for the vang, pulling at 45degrees to the mast) but if the pull on <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%204.1.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 2px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 4px" height="142" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%204.1.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a>it was straight up, it might not stand up to the stresses involved. It was elected to use the aft pivot hole in the mast step, with a 3/8" stainless pin, with sleeves to hold the special fitting on center, to perform as a suitable anchor for a 45degree pull as well as a pull straight up the mast.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Mast%20step2.0.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/Mast%20step2.0.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%204.2.jpg"></a><br /><br /><br />The pin is held in place by a pivoting stainless plate that swings out of the way for pin removal or insertion.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%204.2.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="154" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%204.2.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The pin and sleeves must be removed any time the mast is installed or removed from the mast step.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%201.1.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 154px" height="159" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%201.1.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The original boom vang hardware was used ( with the exception of the fitting that attaches the vang to the boom bracket-an improved replacement fitting -HOLT-ALLEN #HA4002- was found).<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%201.1.jpg"></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%202.3.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 139px" height="144" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%202.3.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The gooseneck downhaul was made up of readily available RWO fittings. The original thumb screw lock was replaced with a stainless steel threaded stud (with a 3/16" hole in the outer end) and a sleeve threaded into the original lock threads.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%203.1.jpg"></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%203.1.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="145" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%203.1.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Downhaul attached to gooseneck stud.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">BOOM VANG</span><br />Having a boom vang that is properly designed for your boat is essential for running before the wind (broad reaching and running).<br />Without a proper vang that is well tensioned, you will find that the end of the boom will rise as the wind increases when you are running. The more sail area you can present to the wind, the faster your boat will go. A flat sail has more effective sail area than a curved sail on a run.<br />Another factor to consider is the dreaded "ACCIDENTAL GYBE". If the mainsail , when on a run, is allowed to swing wildly from one side to the other, (if the wind shifts direction) CATASTROPHIC RESULTS could occur.<br /><br />You may find that<br />#1 The boat will swing wildly onto the new heading, if you are lucky.<br />#2 If you aren't lucky, the boat could BROACH and you may find yourself and your crew in the water.<br />#3 You may also find that if you are still sailing (for the moment) that you have broken some essential piece of sailboat hardware e.g. rudder blade, tiller, pintles/gudgeons or gooseneck.<br /><br />A gybe under controlled conditions is a very useful sailing technique, an uncontrolled gybe can spell DISASTER.Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com833tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-1126730164497995242005-09-14T13:34:00.000-07:002006-05-24T07:27:22.030-07:00SPREADER ENDSHaving a method of fastening the ends of the spreaders to the shrouds securely is ess<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%204.0.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%204.0.jpg" border="0" /></a>ential for a MATILDA to sail well and safely.<br />One of the main purposes of spreaders is to create a more open angle for the shroud attachment at the top of the mast because if the angle is too acute [less than 12degrees], then much of the load on the spreader is converted to excessive compression loading on the mast. The preferred angle is 12degrees or greater.<br />Spreaders can also be used to bend the mast but on a MATILDA the mast is not limber enough to be affected by the spreader unless you are out in a real gale.<br />Another objective is that the spreader should be attached to the shroud at an angle that bisects the shroud above and below the spreader/shroud attachment point. Spreaders that are level to the horizon look lifeless, dowdy[love that word] and can be dangerous as the pressure exerted on them by the shrouds can force the outer end down the shroud, causing reduced tension on the shroud as well when you come about, your shroud could, literally, be waving in the wind.<br />Another factor to consider is the practice of attaching a pulley to the underside of a spreader, towards the outer end, for running up pennants, flags, burgees, etc. Do so with caution, as even a small pull on most spreader/shroud attachment will cause the spreader to slowly creep down the shroud. Excercise caution, when raising pennants, etc., if you adhere to this practice.<br />So, I hope I have convinced you that it is extremely important that the outer end of the spreader be firmly attached to the shroud.<br /><br /><br />Here are photos of a system we have utilized for several years, that ensures that our outer ends of our spreaders remain firmly fastened to our shrouds.<br />[Enlarge this photo to appreciate the complexities of the components]<br /><br />Blue-aluminum plug fits inside spreader[pushfit inside spreader] <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/SPREADER%20END.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 137px" height="137" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/SPREADER%20END.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a><br />head is same O.D. as spreader[radius corners well so that shroud does not go over sharp corners]-Core drilled out to allow 1/8" wall inside spreader[to allow rivet head to expand]<br />Yellow-1/8"stainless pipe plug-27T.P.I.<br />Red-5/32" shroud wire<br />Green-3/16" aluminum pop rivets. They can easily be drilled out to remove shroud, if necessary.<br />Cap is made from aluminum-1/4" larger than spreader O.D. to <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%202.0.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="148" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%202.0.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a>allow 1/8" wall around spreader<br />5/32" slot cut top and bottom to allow shroud to be installed.<br />[Use caution when tapping plug hole so that plug traps wire securely before plug threads [tapered] bottom against cap threads].<br />Cap body bored out to spreader O.D. to depth of slot.<br />[Radius end of cap well so that fore-sails and main sail do not rub against sharp corners].<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%202.0.jpg"></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%202.0.jpg"></a>Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-1126730046966969942005-09-14T13:31:00.000-07:002008-02-03T12:19:07.804-08:00INBOARD JIB SHEET FAIRLEAD TRACK PLUS REPLACE GENOA TRACK<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%2031.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%2031.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%2042.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 143px" height="161" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%2042.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Inboard jib sheeting is the SECRET to having a MATILDA perform WELL to windward.<br />The jib sheet fairleads, using the outside tracks on the gunnels, result in a jib sheet LEAD angle of 24 degrees.<br />"UNDERSTANDING RIGS AND RIGGING" by RICHARD HENDERSON recommends a sheeting angle of 8-10degees for RACERS and 10-12degrees for CRUISERS[page 150].<br /><br /><p><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 201px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 158px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" height="150" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%205.jpg" width="257" border="0" /><br />Also recommended is an wider angle for really strong winds but who wants to go out in a storm unless you have to.<br />The 24degree sheeting angle of the stock MATILDA is quite adequate for BEAM reaches and BROAD reaches [ the MATILDA'S strong points of sail, especially with a large GENOA] but for windward work, the potential of the Matilda is severely compromised.<br />Moving the tracks inboard to 14degrees[we are limited to 14degrees because of the cabin hatch cover rails] has dramatically improved the ability of our MATILDA to go to windward. The inboard tracks are 24" in length. They are what was left over from two 6' lengths of genoa track that we used to replace the original gunnel tracks. They are held in place with flat head stainless steel bolts, 1/4"-20 t.p.i. with a large stainless steel flat washer [7/8" in dia.], plus a lock washer and an acorn nut on the underside of the cabin roof. Our boat has now had 2 seasons of fairly vigorous sailing and I have not been able to detect any stress cracks, etc. around the track on the cabin top or on the underside of the top. If there was only one attachment point for the fairlead, it might be a different story but having the 2' length of track helps to spread the load on the cabin top.<br />The mainsail,when pulled to the centerline , as it should be for windward work, is NOT backwinded to any great extent.<br />The angle of heel has not increased significantly. In really strong winds, the outside tracks can still be used. <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%207.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="135" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%207.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a><br />Using Harken cam cleats on the cabin roof, allows quick release and adjustment of the jib sheets. As well, the tightening of the jib sheets is not a great physical effort, IF one does it properly.<br />The SECRET to trimming, in medium strength winds is to hold off releasing the jib sheet, until the jib sail goes thru the eye of the wind and then, to quickly tighten the sheet , as much as possible before the wind fills the sail on the new heading.<br />Once the new tack is established, the jib sheet could be adjusted, but for most windward work, you want the jib sheet as tight as possible.<br />P.S. In order for the jib sail to function properly with the new tracks, it is necessary to make a short leader for the jib tack. A length of 12" works well but 14" would be ideal[see JIB TACK LEADER].<br />One must bear in mind that a short, broad, beamy hull like the Matilda, will never go to windward as well as a long, narrow, easily driven hull, but the windward ability of a MATILDA can be GREATLY IMPROVED.</p><p>P.S. Here is a link to an EXCELLENT article on installing inboard jib sheet fairlead tracks on a West Wight Potter 19.</p><p><a href="http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/gennytracks/installinggennytracks">http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/gennytracks/installinggennytracks</a></p><p> </p><p><span style="font-size:180%;">RELACE GENOA TRACKS</span></p><p>There were several problems we had hoped to solve with replacing the original gunnel tracks. </p><p>#1 There were myste<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/GENOA%20TRACK%20GREY.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/GENOA%20TRACK%20GREY.jpg" border="0" /></a>rious leaks on our MATILDA, especially when going to windward, in strong winds ,with the leeward gunnel near or actually under water for periods of time. Upon investigation, we found that the hull to deck joint wasn't compromised and the source of the leaks still eluded us. Only when we decided to check the integrity of the gunnel track screws, did we find that some would spin quite readily in their sockets and were certainly not holding securely. After withdrawing a few, we noticed the soupy consistency of the material they were screwed into. Apparently the thru holes in the original track, for the fairlead locking pin, allowed water to sit in the holes and even<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Genoa%20track%20with%20water.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 213px" height="210" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/Genoa%20track%20with%20water.jpg" width="320" border="0" /></a>tually find its way to the screw holes where it spiralled down the screw and eventually compromised the fibreglass[?] material the screws were screwed into. We removed the track and filled the original screw holes with epoxy [the new track would require new holes for the attachment screws in a different location]. We found that some of the screw holes allowed the epoxy to run right down to the bilge. </p><p>#2 The original fairlead blocks [ without hold up springs] were always clanging around on the windward side when going to weather but stand/up blocks were not available to fit the original tracks [with 3/16" thick ears]. The newer fairleads required a track with 1/8" thick ears and they were available with nylon inserts which made them much easier to move on the track.</p><p>#3 The new track had fairlead adjustment holes that did not go all the way thru the tracks. Consequently, water could never seep from the adjustment holes on the new track. </p><p><span style="font-size:100%;"></span></p><p><span style="font-size:180%;"></span></p><p></p>Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com47tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-1125878802328679912005-09-04T17:05:00.000-07:002008-06-06T17:20:15.627-07:00RUDDER ASSEMBLY TEST<div align="justify"><br />All MATILDAS should have a rudder pull-up and hold-down system in operation- if such an arrangement is not functional, you are asking for trouble.<br />A. if a rudder hold down plan is not implemented, the rudder could hit the outboard motor propeller.<br />B. if a rudder pull-up system is not effective and secure, the rudder could be damaged [hitting the ground] when boat is launched or retrieved. Also, if you are being blown into skinny (shallow) water, and there is the risk of the rudder blade being twisted sideways, pull it up to prevent it from breaking.<br />C. if the rudder does not have a hold-down arrangement that works well in heavy weather and the rudder is allowed to trail straight out behind the craft, a VERY heavy tiller results, as well as the more serious problem of possibly breaking the tiller or the rudder because of the EXTREME leverage exerted by the rudder being straight out behind the pivot point.</div><br /><div align="justify"></div><br /><div align="justify"></div><br /><div align="justify"></div><br /><div align="justify"></div><br /><div align="justify"></div><br /><div align="justify"></div><br /><div align="justify"></div><br /><div align="justify"></div><br /><div align="justify"></div><br /><div align="justify">Objectives - Rudder Assembly Test # 1 <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%20172.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 168px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 176px" height="322" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%20172.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a><br />#1 Improve method of rudder hold down and pull up - rope and cleat concept has problems- if rudder has run aground, rope tension increases dramatically and sometimes the only way to free rudder is to cut hold-down rope<br />#2 Reduce pintle and gudgeon play- existing top pintle was loose in the aluminum rudder head- the lower gudgeon was badly worn resulting in excessive play in the tiller system<br />#3 Durability of aluminum rudder paint- the 1/4 in. aluminum plate had been painted with TREMCLAD paint which did not adhere well to the rudder<br />#4 Any difference to handling of boat with rudder at 90 degrees to water surface or does balanced rudder concept [following transom line] offer any advantage </div><br /><div align="justify"><br /></div><br /><p><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Rudder%20assembly%20test%2012.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 162px" height="241" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Rudder%20assembly%20test%2012.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a>Details -Rudder Assembly Test #1<br />A. Original 1/4" thick aluminum rudder which had been sandblasted and painted [2 coats epoxy primer + 2 coats FOREST GREEN AWLGRIP paint.]<br />B. Rudder pullup and transport clips [shown in full down position] which results in a balanced rudder. Clip #1 is used for holding rudder at 90 degrees to water surface. Clip #2 is used for launching and retrieving boat, with the rudder installed.<br />C. Rudder hold down and pull up spring + 1/8" wire strop [pivots from rudder head bolt to stand/off on rudder]. Spring is 9" closed length and expands to 13" when moved thru full arc [full down to full up].<br /><br />RESULTS<br />#1. The spring concept has performed beautifully. MATILDA owners who do not have the spring installed, have sailed our boat and can't believe the difference in tiller pressure. Even in heavy winds, our rudder remains very light to the touch and we can be confident t<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%202.1.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%202.1.jpg" border="0" /></a>hat if the rudder ever needs to go up if it encounters an object, it can.<br />#2. The upper pintle has been modified using a 3" long 1/2" diameter stainless bolt.The lower portion was turned down to .390" diameter for 1.600" leaving .500" O.D. shoulder for .125". Above the shoulder, the upper portion was turned to .4375" diameter [because that is what it took to clean up I.D. of original gudgeon hole] for .900" and the balance of the bolt was threaded 3/8" -16T.P.I. The stud was pulled into the boss [was a nice press fit] after red loctite was applied. After 2 years of hard sailing, pin is still nice solid fit in boss. The expense of making up the new pin could have been avoided if, red loctite had been applied to the pin when it was discovered working loose in it's mounting.<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%203.0.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%203.0.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />#2. continued, The lower gudgeon was also badly worn. A bronze bushing 1.000" O.D. was turned up, 1.300" in length. The upper portion of the bushing was turned to .508" diameter leaving .125" collar at the bottom. The .508" diameter was a press fit in lower rudder assembly boss. [It took reaming out to .506" to clean up I.D. of lower boss.] The I.D. of the bushing was reamed to .375" which was the diameter of the lower pintle. Stainless pins don't wear but the aluminum bosses certainly do. </p><br /><p>#3. The 2-part paint has stood up well for 2 seasons now. It only requires a wash with MURIATIC ACID to remove the mineral deposits that adhere to all underwater surfaces at WILDWOOD LAKE and looks almost as good as the day it was painted.<br />#4. The photo on the left shows the rudder in the full down position. The photo on the right shows the rudder in a position [clip #1] that is at 90degrees to the water's surface. I have been unable to detect any difference in the boat's handling between the two positions.<br /><br /><br /></p><br /><p align="left"><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%2012.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 148px" height="151" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%2012.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%2021.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%2021.jpg" border="0" /></a></p><p align="left"> </p><p align="left"> </p><p align="left"> </p><p align="left"> </p><p align="left"> </p><p align="left"> </p><p align="left">RUDDER BREAKAGE</p><p align="left">Because MATILDA rudder blades were made from 1/4" thick aluminum plate, they are quite susceptible to breakage right at the bottom of the rudder cheeks.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjnrwAqbiv57KCmy7cf_kKcDSN-b5ZlghXWBFm03mqsk0qNXOzixY_Vcx1OUZDJTWxMlGfy2lLOCoyYQ8CW3UY7kmmh2fFhymiMASGsu9FMzivOZ14agSurKXpu6hWWaIoEl-Q/s1600-h/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+047+Dimensions+(Small).JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5208923817959435986" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjnrwAqbiv57KCmy7cf_kKcDSN-b5ZlghXWBFm03mqsk0qNXOzixY_Vcx1OUZDJTWxMlGfy2lLOCoyYQ8CW3UY7kmmh2fFhymiMASGsu9FMzivOZ14agSurKXpu6hWWaIoEl-Q/s320/Matilda+Cockpit+Drains+047+Dimensions+(Small).JPG" border="0" /></a></p><p align="left">Several years ago,a friend of ours broke his MATILDA rudder blade at that exact spot when he was pushing the envelope with his craft. He was out in very strong winds, with his genoa installed and flying along rather well when suddenly the rudder blade broke. Luckily, he had a rudder blade pullup installed and did not lose the blade. He simply started his outboard, lowered sails and proceeded back to the club a little wiser.</p><p align="left"> </p><p align="left"> </p><p align="left"> </p><p align="left"> </p><p align="left"> </p><p align="left">After making a template of the original rudder, we proceeded to profile the remaining top of the rudder to the part that had broken off and he was back on the water again. The boat is still performing well to this day with the sawed off rudder blade.</p><p align="left"> </p>Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-1125878365987472272005-09-04T16:57:00.000-07:002006-11-04T10:57:51.916-08:00CENTERBOARD ASSEMBLY TEST<img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 3px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 1px" height="150" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/test%20picture%201%20of%20centreboard2.jpg" width="156" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/test%20picture%201%20of%20centreboard2.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 1px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 8px" height="150" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/test%20picture%201%20of%20centreboard2.jpg" width="136" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/test%20picture%201%20of%20centreboard2.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 2px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 12px" height="150" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/test%20picture%201%20of%20centreboard2.jpg" width="155" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/test%20picture%201%20of%20centreboard2.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 2px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 14px" height="150" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/test%20picture%201%20of%20centreboard2.jpg" width="163" border="0" /></a><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Rudder%20assembly%20test%2011.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 15px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 1px" height="97" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Rudder%20assembly%20test%2011.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a> Centerboards are probably the most neglected component of <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/test%20picture%201%20of%20centreboard2.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 2px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 8px" height="142" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/test%20picture%201%20of%20centreboard2.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a>MATILDA sailboats[out of sight-out of mind]. Neglect your centerboard at your OWN PERIL.<br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/ANOTHER%20OLD%20STYLE%20CENTERBOARD.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 7px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 6px" height="150" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/ANOTHER%20OLD%20STYLE%20CENTERBOARD.jpg" width="138" border="0" /></a><br />Objectives - Centerboard Assembly Test #1<br /><br />#1 Epoxy paint durability-the original centerboard was badly rusted and had numerous DEEP depressions from rust? and had been touched up with TREMCLAD [no anti-fouling paint had been applied]. Leading edge of centerboard was very rough [acting like a saw blade on front wooden centerboard guide every time centerboard was raised or lowered] - especially with over half of the centerboard's weight of 300lbs. resting against the front wooden centerboard guide.<br />There is not any coating that can withstand this much pressure for any length o<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/ANOTHER%20OLD%20STYLE%20CENTERBOARD.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 206px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 174px" height="150" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/ANOTHER%20OLD%20STYLE%20CENTERBOARD.jpg" width="218" border="0" /></a>f time.<br /><br />#2 Reduce wear on front lower centerboard guide- the existing pulley system used the mid- point of the centerboard as the fulcrum for raising and lowering the centerboard and bulb [this was a good system for the early MATILDAS that had a bulb with material in front of and behind the centerboard, but is certainly not suitable for LATER MATILDAS [SEE INSTALLING CENTERBOARD] which have material only beyond the rear of the centerboard, which causes the newer style centerboards to be very tail heavy] Being TAIL HEAVY causes EXTREME pressure on front centerboard guide[ in fact, in excess of 160lbs. is required to pull centerboard back from front centerboard guide] If allowed to remain in that state the front guide would have to be replaced shortly.<br /><br />#3 Durability of revised centerboard lift wires -would changing from a 4 to 1 ratio to a 3 to 1 ratio raising system over stress the existing wire and pulleys?<br /><br />#4 Increased lift requirements of raising centerboard- would changing from a 4 to 1 raising system to a 3 to 1 raising system cause the winch operator difficulty?<br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/the%20winch.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 173px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 130px" height="335" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/the%20winch.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a><br />#5 Revisions to winch- the hazards of a winch RUNAWAY have been discussed in great detail in previous MATILDA WEBSITE FORUMS and the general conclusion is that the current winch is the least expensive solution as well as the best use of the existing winch - EDUCATION is the answer rather than replacing existing winch. But for complete peace of mind, install a BRAKE winch and you will never have to worry about WINCH RUNAWAYS again.<br /><br /><br /><br />Details -Centerboard Assembly Test #1 <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/test%20picture%201%20of%20centreboard2.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 187px" height="150" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/test%20picture%201%20of%20centreboard2.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a><br />A. Becket for wire rope [2 stainless steel straps 1/8 " X 1 ½"] pivoting on pulley axle ½" diameter [3/8" thru bolt]<br />B. One of the two original centerboard straps [note bolt above B thru bolted under pulley to prevent wire from jumping off pulley]<br />C. Safety strop [1/8" 7x19 stainless wire-1700lbs breaking strength ]-clevis pin safety wired. Limits centerboard movement to 1" below stop bolt position<br />D. Bridge made by a previous owner to overcome problem of center pulley splitting top support wooden frame<br />E. Centerboard which has been sandblasted and painted [2 coats epoxy primer + 2 coats FOREST GREEN AWLGRIP paint]<br /><br /><br /><br />Installing MATILDA centerboard after <img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 255px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 210px" height="215" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/INSTALLING%20MATILDA%20CENTERBOARD.jpg" width="200" border="0" /><br />#1 Sandblasting centerboard and bulb<br />#2 Fairing board with INTERLUX watertite epoxy filler<br />#3 Priming with epoxy primer [AWLGRIP] 2 coats<br />#4 Painting [2 coats] with AWLGRIP FOREST GREEN<br />Weight of centerboard and bulb = 297 lbs.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />RESULTS<br /><br />#1. The epoxy paint has surpassed all expectations. The centerboard, after a wash with MURIATIC ACID [to remove the mineral deposits that adhere to all underwater surfaces at WILDWOOD LAKE], has stood up well after 2 seasons and looks almost as good as the day it was painted.<br /><br />#2. Revising the centerboard pulley system has worked well to reduce the wear on the front centerboard guide lower corner. The epoxy paint on the leading edge of the centerboard is still in good shape and the lower portion of the centerboard front guide has not deteriorated any further. A good test to determine how freely the centerboard is suspended in the centerboard trunk, is that, if the centerboard is lowered 2 ratchet teeth on the winch from full up [when the boat is on it's trailer], the centerboard can be moved quite easily, fore and aft, in it's cavity, where as before, it was almost impossible to pull the centerboard back from the front guide. THIS IS DEFINITELY A MODIFICATION THAT ALL MATILDAS WITH A TAIL HEAVY CENTERBOARD SHOULD CONTEMPLATE. Another observation that should be made, is that some MATILDAS experience a STUCK centerboard[ centerboard can not be raised]. This condition[ only with TAIL HEAVY centerboards] is likely caused by a centerboard being jammed in the cavity because the aft top corner is digging into the rear centerboard guide because of the tail heavy centerboard. The only way to remedy this problem is to lower the centerboard slightly and somehow apply forward pressure to the wires on the aft pulley in an effort to prevent the top corner of the centerboard from digging in to the rear guide and SERIOUSLY CONSIDER CHANGING THE PULLEY SYSTEM.<br /><br />#3&4. The centerboard goes up and down much more smoothly and freely [because pressure is not being exerted on the top rear corner and lower front corner] than with the previous setup which has actually made it easier for the winch operator to raise the centerboard. It has also reduced stress on the wires and pulleys, because the centerboard no longer is dragging on the top rear corner and lower front corner.<br /><br />#5. The jury is still out on the winch question. People who have switched to the BRAKE winch love their conversion and are confident that NO ONE will ever experience a WINCH RUNAWAY on their MATILDA.<br /><br />Another observation that should be made is , how much clearance should there be , when the centerboard is fulled raised in it's slot and the boat is on it's trailer. If wear has not occurred , there will be approximately 3/4 " clearance [ allowance for the safety bolt cutout] at the rear of the centerboard and almost ZERO clearance at the front between the centerboard and the edge of the cavity. If the clearance at the front is larger than 1/4", you will know that the lower front corner of the centerboard slot is being eroded and future problems will arise.<br /><br />AN INTERESTING OBSERVATION<br /><br />During the winter of 03/04, when we removed the centerboard of our WALTZING MATILDA, for fairing with INTERLUX WATERTITE and painting with AWLGRIP two part paint, we made an interesting discovery that could have far reaching ramifications for MATILDA sailboat owners who have what is referred to as a "TAIL HEAVY CENTERBOARD.<br />In the process of moving the centerboard around with our forklift, we attached a chain to lift the centerboard as we didn’t want to drag the centerboard and scratch the paint. If the chain was attached to the center hole at the top of the centerboard, it would assume the position shown at the left side of the picture. If the chain was attached to the left hole at the <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/centerboard%20comparison%20jpg.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/320/centerboard%20comparison%20jpg.jpg" border="0" /></a>top of the centerboard, the result is shown on the right side of the photo.<br />As you can see, the bulb is not parallel to the ground on the left view, which it should be when installed in the boat. A force of 160 lbs [applied to the centerboard, just above the bulb] was required to move the centerboard to a position where it was level with the ground. This meant that whatever the centerboard was resting against, the centerboard was exerting 160 lbs pressure against whatever was restraining it from finding its natural resting position. When the centerboard is installed in its trunk in the MATILDA, it is the lower edge of the front centerboard guide that is restraining it.<br />So, when the centerboard is raised and lowered, the lower end of the front centerboard guide has a force of 160 lbs exerted against it. Now imagine if that force has a rough surface [caused by rust, etc.] what effect it will have on that lower edge.<br />That’s right, it would rapidly wear , as if you were running a saw blade or rough file, against the lower edge of the centerboard guide every time you raised and lowered the centerboard. Even a smooth painted surface, running up and down, under such pressure would not last long.<br />This action is reflected in the ever widening gap [when the centerboard is raised c<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/centerboard%20with%20text.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/centerboard%20with%20text.jpg" border="0" /></a>ompletely] between the centerboard leading edge and the front of the slot in the MATILDA trunk. As well, another indication of excessive wear on the front centerboard guide is when you find that the centerboard limit bolt is no longer effective [the winch reaches the end of the wire before stopping] because the centerboard is tilted so much that the notch for the bolt does not catch the bolt. Another factor to consider is what effect the position of the centerboard [being further forward in the slot] would have on the balance of the boat [excessive weather helm?].<br /><br />So what are the options? <a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Chris"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Chris%27s%20keel%20guides.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />A. Ignore this condition until the centerboard saws thru the oak guide. The centerboard will then proceed to saw thru the fibreglass in front of the guide and eventually the lower front corner of the centerboard trunk. You will probably notice the water flowing in through the hole you have made in the bottom of your boat.<br /><br />B. Replace the worn portion of the wooden guide with a plastic filler piece. This has been attempted and is successful for a period of time until the plastic [U.H.D.P.E.-Ultra High Density Poly Ethylene] is chewed up as well and the centerboard spits it out the bottom of the trunk.<br /><br />C. Replace the worn wooden guides with new wood. This will solve the situation of the worn guides but is expensive and very time consuming [approx $100.00 for material and 20-30 hours of work once you have removed the centerboard, a major job in itself]. This will solve the symptoms of the problem but the problem will rear its ugly head in the future as you<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%204.6.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%204.5.jpg" border="0" /></a> have not eliminated the problem.<br /><br />D. Try the solution outlined in our BLOG of having only one hanger on the centerboard positioned in the rear holes on the centerboard. We have utilized this solution for two years now and have not experienced any problems. In fact, our centerboard is probably easier to raise than the original set up as the centerboard is not being dragged against<br />the lower corner of the front centerboard guide as configured originally.<br /><br /><a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/centerboard%20evolution.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/centerboard%20evolution.jpg" border="0" /></a> P.S.<br />This photo illustrates the evolution of how we arrived at the left side of COMPARISON photo shown previously.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />For additional information on MATILDA centerboards<br />see<br /><a href="http://matildacenterboard.blogspot.com/">http://matildacenterboard.blogspot.com/</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />KNOCKDOWN PIN<br /><br />May 10,2006<br />Morning Keith, ABSOLUTELY concur with your observation that MATILDAS have a reputation for great stability and deservedly so. However, the fact remains that even the most stable keel boat can get knocked down but they survive. It is my firm belief, that if John Wright's Matilda [ TARDIS II ] had a knockdown pin installed, he would still be sailing his MATILDA today. His boat's fate was sealed when the centerboard slid back into its trunk when the craft was knocked down. In my opinion, the installation of a $4.00 pin is a small price to pay to guard against such a "CATASTROPHIC" event occurring.<br />CHEERS<br />LORNE<br />This message is part of the topic "sticking keel" in the Google Group "Matilda Sailboats"<br />Please visit the topic at <a href="http://groups.google.com/group/Matildasail/t/dcf063bb558313f0">http://groups.google.com/group/Matildasail/t/dcf063bb558313f0</a>Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com280tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-16667963227229376032005-09-04T16:40:00.000-07:002009-10-07T16:39:06.252-07:00DOCK LINESPosted October 7, 2009.<br /><br />Dock lines should be made from the best lines you have available, certainly not from the pathetic remains of well used lines, considering the investment the dock lines are meant to protect.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipI1J1EaHGuADRHD9w5C7xN3bszeJV1oR-Ifwq22vIa97hN9B6VbnqeCfvp-oGypIJMs_kO9DSR3C26vIDtYI9wfqJvbUd2oulK9fOEVqK0q63-YYdN6THwwTbRYOkQ8qAeJvP/s1600-h/Mast+Raising+System+012+(Medium).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389535413247663586" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipI1J1EaHGuADRHD9w5C7xN3bszeJV1oR-Ifwq22vIa97hN9B6VbnqeCfvp-oGypIJMs_kO9DSR3C26vIDtYI9wfqJvbUd2oulK9fOEVqK0q63-YYdN6THwwTbRYOkQ8qAeJvP/s320/Mast+Raising+System+012+(Medium).jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br />Nylon 3 strand is the preferred material for dock lines because of its ability to stretch up to 20% when subjected to 30% of its rated tensile strength. This elasticity reduces the shock loading on fittings on both the boat and the dock. Double braid Dacron will stretch to only 3% when subjected to 30% of its rated tensile strenth (Page 369-Rigger's Apprentice). This lack of stretch plays HAVOC on the fittings on your boat and dock.<br /><br /><br /><br />Proper dock lines are like good fences. Both make for good neighbours. Who wants to be tied up next to someone who is just attached to the dock with the equivalent of a few pieces of string??<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiriFPZ0T7KXx9AUsiBF4pKLIbxz7gDTuoWaOcTAEVaquKHT871v1LqzDAVjO_nh5aZuXSX21LQ77GJp9YEhEuRpE4FyqZoEjEc9ShMHkHp7arFkNQiohGrnWHLMeARZHnXeep/s1600-h/Mast+Raising+System+011+(Medium).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 307px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389267813178516658" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiriFPZ0T7KXx9AUsiBF4pKLIbxz7gDTuoWaOcTAEVaquKHT871v1LqzDAVjO_nh5aZuXSX21LQ77GJp9YEhEuRpE4FyqZoEjEc9ShMHkHp7arFkNQiohGrnWHLMeARZHnXeep/s320/Mast+Raising+System+011+(Medium).jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Note the rubber dock bumper attached to the dock just in case you are coming in too fast (Saves damage to gelcoat, etc.).<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis4XUJn6U4SmCe8EWdUOJu5qbH00ks71kk-hVcCY69q9uF0c911ytwbZSk76tk46llrefkKP_hUuhJIckTZrzwNzBt2pVpfWxTHrW0hNBaYwTd9lHjMeMR-IuIm4X8MduR7EyD/s1600-h/Mast+Raising+System+013+(Medium).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389500430056490018" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis4XUJn6U4SmCe8EWdUOJu5qbH00ks71kk-hVcCY69q9uF0c911ytwbZSk76tk46llrefkKP_hUuhJIckTZrzwNzBt2pVpfWxTHrW0hNBaYwTd9lHjMeMR-IuIm4X8MduR7EyD/s320/Mast+Raising+System+013+(Medium).jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />It should be noted that Dacron is less susceptible to chafe than nylon.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />What is absolutely the worst material to use is polypropylene as it is very susceptible to ulta-violet degradation from the sun's rays.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Another benefit of using 3 strand is that it is much easier to make eyesplices, backsplices and whippings to complete the line.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn99xg4ss3deF6oL5TWVHZUjrVI8Sz6riyUnxj29iNXjzAmMKma578LtCiXABEAa0J33eQUhcHxMh-ArCmxFP3K9xmxuueDhB6CRgkZX_JOsG_3zIQ0McJkv3RgDuGiD1228km/s1600-h/Mast+Raising+System+015+(Medium).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389536829646481410" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn99xg4ss3deF6oL5TWVHZUjrVI8Sz6riyUnxj29iNXjzAmMKma578LtCiXABEAa0J33eQUhcHxMh-ArCmxFP3K9xmxuueDhB6CRgkZX_JOsG_3zIQ0McJkv3RgDuGiD1228km/s320/Mast+Raising+System+015+(Medium).jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />One of the secrets to successful docking is to have the ability to attach one critical line to the boat once it has reached its berth. We accomplish this by having a short line that can be attached quickly to encircle the starboard winch upon arrival. Once this line is on, the boat will stay in close proximity to its dock and the other lines can be attached at your leisure.<br /><br /><br />Our dock lines are made from 1/2" diameter 3 strand nylon.Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-64482309198608030142005-09-04T16:35:00.000-07:002012-01-08T16:29:05.511-08:00Mainsail Cover, Halyard Bags, Tiller Cover, Rescue Ring BagPosted October 11, 2009.<br /><br />We recently installed a new mainsail cover on "WALTZING MATILDA" a<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-XaBS95v_RJaatDfrDriLy9CHdUHXWDkpSQHv087HTPqw2LpMkyfxyoVd1vlvWq-I1MKHguKqRTS52J-QmyHG5jWEzHMFqgkr19ibRqvdL3PdCsCsXiLenVdL9zaSI5f3TZRn/s1600-h/Pams+Mainsail+cover.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5391733088281281794" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-XaBS95v_RJaatDfrDriLy9CHdUHXWDkpSQHv087HTPqw2LpMkyfxyoVd1vlvWq-I1MKHguKqRTS52J-QmyHG5jWEzHMFqgkr19ibRqvdL3PdCsCsXiLenVdL9zaSI5f3TZRn/s320/Pams+Mainsail+cover.jpg" /></a>s our old cover had been repaired on numerous occasions since we acquired her.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The new cover was received during the summer of 2008 from "SAILOR SAM" and we have been very pleased with it. Ted (WAYFARER), Carol (SIREN)and George (MACGREGOR 26D) have also ordered and received mainsail covers from "SAILOR SAM" and are also very pleased with their covers.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN3Hx5VURNOgZ5d8BdCWYzNDq7OjUsTGzuC4FUAUEtNPYZ5WXoQrCH11MwybGmmQaFnz-mwFVCq9DBCRpwVooo6Z_wIyFOn_NoShhUI81XrYIEVskzExKZOjuBI41aFcsgm3UP/s1600-h/George's+Mainsail+Cover+005+(Small).jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392098643977133170" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN3Hx5VURNOgZ5d8BdCWYzNDq7OjUsTGzuC4FUAUEtNPYZ5WXoQrCH11MwybGmmQaFnz-mwFVCq9DBCRpwVooo6Z_wIyFOn_NoShhUI81XrYIEVskzExKZOjuBI41aFcsgm3UP/s320/George's+Mainsail+Cover+005+(Small).jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The halyard bags are a great way to reduce clutter in the cockpit as it is so convenient to simply coil the main and jib halyards and stuff them in their proper bag rather than have them underfoot.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1AfGGVaRauAXZC7nbISkoQ1kHSKdU_CEpMbh377v2gaK2FhJ-SnUssMUSZ-sk-kBejbGt9Rv_Ge03n5tqVf90RvsbA2RGv7IhO7EbkR4fFEK8HXPG1G0eFqoNQ0O8zitZNjm7/s1600-h/Pams+lifering+line+bag.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5391732534466191202" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1AfGGVaRauAXZC7nbISkoQ1kHSKdU_CEpMbh377v2gaK2FhJ-SnUssMUSZ-sk-kBejbGt9Rv_Ge03n5tqVf90RvsbA2RGv7IhO7EbkR4fFEK8HXPG1G0eFqoNQ0O8zitZNjm7/s320/Pams+lifering+line+bag.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Life ring safety line bag (protects the floating polypropylene line from ultra violet degradation)and the tiller cover which also protects the wood's finish from the sun's rays.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Here's a write-up by SAILOR SAM on why these mainsail covers are of such high quality.<br /><br /><br />THANK YOU FOR LOOKING<br />My specialty is making high quality sail covers at affordable prices for seasoned knowledgeable sailors WHO HAVE GROWN TIRED OF WATCHING THE CANVAS ITEMS YOU PURCHASE FALL APART.<br />The big difference between my sail covers and many other covers is in the quality workmanship and attention to every single little one of the details that when they are all combined add up to a higher degree of quality than normal. I believe the details are very important and I include close up photos so you can see the details for yourself. It's all in the details. Everyone who is considering buying a new sail cover should know as much as possible about how it is made and the little details that will add up to long term buyer satisfaction. I believe the purchaser has a right to know as much as possible about the workmanship details before he makes such a purchase, instead of waiting for it to be delivered after the purchase.<br />Sail covers ARE NOT by any means a one size fits all item. I use only genuine American made Sunbrella brand fabric made by Glen Raven Mills in North Carolina. Sunbrella has been the number one fabric choice of boat manufacturers and boat owners worldwide for decades. Why? .... Because Sunbrella has earned their brand recognition and loyalty of their customers through decades of widespread use. There are many similar fabrics out there, but only one genuine Sunbrella fabric.<br />My sail covers are always sewn twice above and also below the seam below the boom where the twist lock fasteners (also called turn buttons) are located that secure the cover closed below the boom. The Common Sense brand Twist Lock fasteners located along the bottom edge below the boom are spaced just 16 inches apart to more evenly spread out the stress load from high winds. I install the fasteners through 3 layers of Sunbrella fabric, plus I use a very sticky double sided rubberized seam tape in all seams. By placing the twist lock fasteners closer together than normally found on other sail covers it better spreads out the stress loads from high winds and storms virtually eliminating any chance of high winds pulling the fasteners out of the fabric. By placing these fasteners closer together it eliminates the need to tie sail covers closed with a line as we see many sailors do when high wind speed storms approach to prevent damage to their sail and sail cover. Making a better sail cover is all in the little details. Some sail cover makers use cheaper to buy and easier and faster to install presa closed button snaps instead of twist lock fasteners to lower their materials cost and work time. Button snaps tend to break and/or pull out of the fabric far easier than correctly installed twist lock fasteners as sail covers age. Many sail cover makers only have two layers of fabric supporting those twist lock fasteners below the boom .... while I use three layers at the fastener locations for added strength and resistance to pull out of the fabric<br />I use YKK brand outdoor marine quality UV resistant #10 wide teeth nylon plastic zippers and they are triple stitched to the fabric to prevent it from being pulled out. The zipper is also held in place by very sticky rubberized seam tape located between the zipper and the fabric. The very sticky seam tape fuses to the fabric when the pressure from sewing stitches through the seams and hems where the tape is used inside the seams. The very sticky seam tape will also help to prevent the thread from ever pulling out of the fabric in long strands if the thread ever breaks from snagging on something or from abrasion wear. The seam above the boom is at least triple stitched and I use the same very sticky seam tape there also. Along the top seam running fore and aft above the boom I place a UV resistant semisolid white vinyl bead (just like the bead commonly found around the edges on seat cushions, see pictures). The bead makes the seam stronger, enhance appearance, hides the thread from exposure sun and makes the cover easier to line up on your boom. This is an added feature I use, rather than the easier, faster and less costly method of just sewing the two sides of the cover fabric directly together as most cover makers do because is far easier and less costly than adding the semi-solid white bead. The semi-solid white bead also helps to add some shape to the cover over the sail ... so the fabric does not hang unevenly or sag as much as other sail covers.<br /><br />I cut the fabric pattern pieces for the cover with a hot knife because it melts this acrylic fabrics edges to prevent it from raveling and having strands of loose threads sticking out. Just as many sailors melt their line and sheet ends to keep them from raveling. I make the cut outs for the fasteners below the boom also using the hot knife because it melts the fabric forming a harder more durable edge around the fastener openings to the help prevent the fasteners from pulling out of the fabric. It takes longer than using a much easier die punch to quickly punch holes through the fabric where the fasteners are located, but the die punch leaves raw fabric edges that will fray more easily and not help to keep the fasteners in place as good.<br /><br />I use only high quality brands of American made UV resistant size 92 polyester thread such as Sunguard brand thread and I color matched the thread color to the fabric color. While most sail cover makers charge extra for color matched thread because color thread costs them more to purchase than white thread does I include it because it makes for a better looking sail cover.<br /><br /><br />Included in the price is an additional layer of inner fabric where the headboard is located and where any mast mounted winches are located to help prevent those items from causing friction wear through the outer fabric .... to help extend the useful life of the cover and have it look better for a longer time.<br /><br />All of my mast neck collars that secure the sail cover around the mast are heavy duty multi layer reinforced custom made for an exact fit for your boat instead of the normal flimsy wrap around fabric style. The collar closes using a large patch adhesive backed and sewn in place Velcro. The collar also has a brass grommet and tie chord. Eventually Velcro can lose it's stickiness after years of use, so I add the brass grommet so it can later be tied closed if the Velcro alone will not do the job years down the road.<br />Every little detail I use takes longer, but that is what it takes to make a sail cover that will last longer and be more trouble free. I personally just hate things that fall apart prematurely.<br />Unlike many other sail covers I guarantee my Workmanship for 3 years against any of the seams opening up and against the fasteners pulling out of the fabric and against the zipper separating from the fabric. I even enjoy sewing so much that I make FREE sewing repairs if it is accidentally damaged by novice crew members for the first 3 years from date of delivery. Ask other cover sellers for a three year warranty on their workmanship on those items and see how they respond. If they say no, then obviously they do not have as much confidence in their own workmanship and they do not enjoy sewing as much as I do. The difference is I have over 35 years experience as a sailor and power boat owner. I know what works and I do not mind putting extra labor time and reinforcements into every cover I make so my fellow sailors get a cover from me that does not start to fall apart after just a few years of usage.<br /><br />I spent 15 years as a boat owner buying my sail covers and other canvas work at shops just like everyone else before I finally got tired of seeing the canvas items I was buying start falling apart at the seams prematurely, so about 20 years ago I began doing all of my own work to get the higher level of workmanship I wanted.<br /><br />If you are a boat owner who buys a different boat every few years then probably any cheaply made lesser quality sail cover will do. But if you are a longer term boat owner that expects many years of service from your sail cover I am sure that the added quality and details I provide will better satisfy your long term boat ownership requirements.<br /><br />Thank you or your interest and please email me any time if you decide you need a new sail cover for a free fast cost estimate. It's all in the details .<br /><br />The Priority Mall shipping charge is listed at $16.00 but it can be less if you live closer to NJ, but will not be more than $16 to the west coast of mainland USA. If outside mainland US please check postage rates at usps.com. Item is shipped from Red Bank NJ 07710 and it's weight is 7 pounds. I charge as close as possible to the actual postage costs and do not add on.<br /><br />Thank you,<br /><br />Sailor Sam<br /><br /><a href="mailto:Sgentilejr@aol.com">Sgentilejr@aol.com</a><br /><br />PS: Attn. Cat boat owners •.•.• yes ••.. I also make custom fit Cat boat covers with lots of attention to the special details on cat boats and at very offer affordable prices also.Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16274463.post-1125876874733159052005-09-04T16:29:00.000-07:002006-06-09T16:46:38.483-07:00PROPELLER PAINT TEST PLUS WINDOW FRAMES<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/PAINTED%20HONDA%20PROP.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 216px" height="178" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/PAINTED%20HONDA%20PROP.jpg" width="200" border="0" /></a><br />Objectives - Propeller Test #1<br />Since the propeller is so visible at dock [motor tilted up out of water], would epoxy paint stand up better than original HONDA paint which was peeling and chipping?<br /><br />Details -Propeller Test #1<br />Original HONDA [5 hp] propeller sandblasted and painted [ 2 coats epoxy primer and 2 coats FOREST GREEN AWLGRIP paint].<br /><br />Results<br />Shows no deterioration of paint after 2 full seasons of sailing, approximately 200 start ups of motor to motor in and out of dock.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:180%;">WINDOW FRAMES</span><br />Interest has been expressed in the window frames on our MATILDA.<br />The earlier MATILDAS had rubber window frames which had a rubber gasket surrounding the window with a groove in the rubber to encircle the window and a groove in the out<a href="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/1600/Picture%201.0.jpg"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/958/1539/200/Picture%201.0.jpg" border="0" /></a>side of the rubber to hold the rubber frame in the cutout in the fibreglass wall . These windows were quite susceptible to leaks [ one only has to look closely at windows of this style to see the attempts to prevent leaks- copious quantities of silicone around the edges of the gasket] and were certainly not the most secure [ one member of our club was astonished when he leaned against the window with his knee and the window popped out of the gasket].<br />Later Matildas had an aluminum frame [which was riveted to the fibreglass wall] which have proven to be much superior in preventing leaks as well as vastly improving the strength of the windows. An earlier modification that was made to our MATILDA was the addition of an aluminum frame to the inside of our windows . The window frame gasket presented quite a challenge to locate a source for the proper gasket. We were fortunate to find HOLLAND MARINE in Toronto had a supply of gasket material in stock [PETER told me they had special dies made up to extrude the gasket material when they could not find any other source for this gasket which is also used on many other boats]. Installing the gasket presented no great challenge and they went together quite well and have stood up well for over 2 years now [NO LEAKS]. SPECIAL NOTE RE INSTALLING GASKET-since the gasket is pushed into the groove in the frame, be sure that the groove into which the gasket is being inserted, is uniform in width around the frame, especially the corners as that is where we found the groove to be closed up a little. A copious amount of dishwashing soap aids in inserting the gasket. The frames are held in place with flat head #8-32 stainless bolts , 3/4" in length with a stainless flat washer, lock washer and acorn nut on the inside.<br /><br /><span style="font-size:180%;">WINDOWS</span><br />As the original windows were severely clouded, we elected to replace the windows with LEXAN. A local glass shop duplicated the windows in lexan.Mulholland's Matildahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04980096546975550275noreply@blogger.com4